Jebel Akhdar

Jebel Akhdar, Oman

Early morning sun illuminates the terraced orchards and stone walls of the Al Akhdar Mountains.

Go for a cool, green mountain that rises out of Oman's desert, with terraced orchards, old villages and walking routes above the clouds.

The place

Jebel Akhdar, the Green Mountain, is a limestone range in the central part of the Hajar Mountains, in Ad Dakhiliyah Governorate. It runs for roughly 80 km and is about 150 km from Muscat by road. Most of the Hajar is dry, but the higher ground collects enough rain, around 300 mm a year, to support shrubs, trees and farming, and that is where the name comes from. The range is cut by a network of wadis, the river valleys that run down to the lowlands, and the sides of these valleys have been shaped into terraces for centuries. Pomegranates, walnuts, apricots, black grapes and peaches grow on them, and the area is known for its rose water and for honey from bee-keeping. The highest point is Jebel Shams, at 3,018 m, which is also the highest peak in Oman. Its second, south summit is open to walkers on the W4 trail. Above the orchards lies the Saiq Plateau, at about 2,000 m, where villages sit on the edge of the cliffs. The road up is steep and winding, and the upper tracks need a four-wheel drive, so most visitors arrive by hired car or tour from Nizwa, which is about a 45-minute drive away. Expect cool evenings at height even when the lowlands are hot, and bring layers, because the weather can change quickly on the plateau.

Its story

The mountain's modern history is closely tied to the Jebel Akhdar War, fought between 1954 and 1959. Omani government forces, backed by British troops including the Special Air Service, faced rebels of the inland Imamate, who had support from Saudi Arabia. The fighting left the villages and terraces here marked by the conflict, and the old fortifications that remain testify to who controlled the high ground. One of these is Birkat al-Mawz, meaning Pool of the Plantains, a mud-brick stronghold on the inland side of the mountain. It stood at the mouth of a major pass and belonged to the Bani Riyam, the tribe that held the mountain heartland. For a long time it was in ruins, but it is now being restored. The tribe still lives on the mountain and in nearby settlements such as Nizwa, Izki and Ibra. Farming here depends on falaj irrigation channels, a system the local people developed over many generations to carry water to the terraces. Later, in August 2011, Sultan Qaboos declared the area a nature reserve to protect its fragile biodiversity, and a decree set up a sanctuary for its natural scenery. Since 2011 the mountain has also been the main climb of the Tour of Oman cycling race. Rock art found in the area has been dated to around 6,000 years ago, showing that people were using these hills long before the terraces. In 2025 UNESCO designated the mountain a biosphere reserve.

What to see

Culture

Life on Jebel Akhdar revolves around farming, irrigation and the families who have worked these terraces for generations. The falaj channels that bring water to the orchards are part of a shared system, and the terraces are working fields, not scenery. Many of the people who live here are members of the Bani Riyam tribe, and their villages are homes first. Mornings are when the farms and markets are busiest, and the late afternoon is quieter as the light fades. Hospitality matters: if someone offers you coffee or dates, accepting is a polite gesture, and it is customary to use your right hand when eating or accepting something. Greetings are important, so take the time to say hello properly before asking a question. Photographing people, especially women and children, needs permission, and you should not walk through family courtyards or enter private orchards without being invited. Keep your voice low when passing homes, and leave gates as you found them. Dress modestly in villages and carry a light layer for cool evenings, since local people are more conservative in dress than visitors on the trails. Please ask before photographing anyone in the village, and do not enter a private courtyard or orchard unless you have been invited.

What to wear

Traditional dress on Jebel Akhdar is much the same as in the rest of Oman. Men traditionally wear the dishdasha, a long, loose, ankle-length robe, usually in white or pale colours, often with a rounded embroidered cap called a kumma. Women typically wear long dresses and cover their hair, and many wear the abaya, a long outer robe, when going out. Cotton is the everyday fabric for these garments, while heavier wool and layered textiles suit the cooler mountain air in winter. Embroidery on collars and cuffs, and on women's head coverings, marks family and regional identity. In daily life today, you will see a mix of traditional and modern clothes. Younger men often wear the dishdasha for work and special occasions and jeans or shirts at other times, while many women combine an abaya or scarf with contemporary clothing. Visitors should dress modestly, especially in villages and near mosques: shoulders and knees covered, loose tops and trousers or long skirts, and a scarf to carry for head covering when visiting religious places. Good walking shoes with grip are essential for rocky, loose terrain on the trails, and a warm layer is useful on the plateau, where evenings can be cold even when the lowlands feel hot.

What to eat

Plan it

Best time. October to November and March to April suit the mountain best. The days are warm but comfortable, and the evenings on the plateau are cool, which makes walking pleasant. Summer in the lowlands is very hot, and although the mountain is cooler, the heat carries up the slopes on some days. Winter nights on the plateau can be cold, so bring warm layers if you visit in those months.

How long. 2–3

Getting there. Fly into Muscat International Airport, then drive about 150 km to the mountain, going via Nizwa, which is about a 45-minute drive from the foothills. Hire a four-wheel drive or join a guided tour for the upper roads, as they are steep and rough in places.

Budget. mid

Tips

Etiquette

Nearby

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