Great Britain

Great Britain, United Kingdom

St Michael's Mount stands on its tidal island in Mount's Bay at sunset, its causeway shining on wet sand.

Great Britain packs chalk cliffs, Highland heather, Welsh coves and old cities into one island where the sea is rarely far away.

The place

Great Britain is the island that holds England, Scotland and Wales, set in the North Atlantic off the north-west edge of continental Europe. Ireland lies across the water to the west, while the Channel and the North Sea separate the island from France, Belgium and the Netherlands. The United Kingdom, of which the island forms the largest part, has about 65 million people, and most of them live in cities within reach of the coast. The land changes quickly over short distances. The south has chalk cliffs and shingle beaches, Devon and Wales have red and grey coves, the east coast has wide sandy flats, and western Scotland breaks up into sea lochs and rocky islands. Inland there are moors, lakes, mountains and busy cities. The climate is maritime, so the sea softens the seasons: winters are mild, summers are cool by Indian standards, and the gap between the two is modest. In practice that means changeable weather, with sun, cloud and a shower all possible in one afternoon, and a sharp wind on even a warm beach day. Heat waves do happen, and the beaches fill fast when they do. Distances are small, so a city and a coastline can often share a single day's travel. The name itself is slippery. It can mean only the island, or the political territory with its offshore islands, and Northern Ireland sits outside both uses even though it is part of the UK. People usually describe themselves as English, Scottish or Welsh, and visitors do well to follow that lead.

Its story

Great Britain was not always an island. For long stretches of the ice ages, sea levels were low enough that people and animals could walk from the continent. The oldest known traces of early humans are footprints preserved on the Norfolk coast at Happisburgh, left by a very ancient population that came and went with the changing climate. Later floods are thought to have broken through the chalk ridge that joined Britain to France, carving out the English Channel and turning the land into an island whenever the climate warmed. Modern humans arrived much later, and remains from Kents Cavern in Devon are among the evidence for them. A marshy plain called Doggerland survived in what is now the North Sea until about 9,000 years ago, linking the east coast with Denmark and the Netherlands before the rising water finally covered it. After the sea closed in, the island's story became one of arrivals by boat. Hunter-gatherers were joined by Neolithic farmers, who came from Anatolia and brought crops, livestock and new ways of building. Their descendants raised the stone circles and burial mounds that still stand on hillsides and headlands. Ancient mapmakers such as Ptolemy sketched the island from reports of sailors, which is why early maps show it oddly twisted. The coast shaped everything that followed: trade, invasion, fishing, naval power and, eventually, the seaside holiday. To read the island's past, it helps to treat the sea as the main character and the land as its edge.

What to see

Culture

Great Britain's manners lean towards understatement. Greetings are casual: a friendly "hello" will do, and people often say "alright?" as a greeting rather than a real question, so the usual reply is simply "alright" or "not too bad, you?". A handshake is normal between anyone, a hug is for close friends, and the simplest approach is to follow what the other person offers. Queuing is taken seriously, whether at a bus stop, a fish-and-chip counter or a ferry ramp, and pushing in is a quick way to annoy a crowd. Politeness shows up in small words, with "please", "thank you" and "sorry" used constantly, even when nobody is really at fault. Pubs are social centres, especially in coastal towns, and rounds of drinks are usually bought in turn rather than split on a bill. Humour is dry and often self-mocking, and talk about the weather is a standard way to start a conversation. The island is also made up of three nations, each with its own identity, and Scottish and Welsh people may dislike being called English. Many Welsh signs and place names appear in Welsh, and in Scotland Gaelic is heard mainly in the north-west and the islands. Regional accents vary a great deal, so it is fine to ask someone to repeat themselves. On a beach or coast path, people give each other space and keep voices low. Join the queue at the back, wait your turn at counters and bus stops, and never push ahead of the line.

What to wear

Great Britain has no single national costume, but each nation has recognised traditional dress. In Scotland the best known is the kilt, made from woollen tartan, with each pattern tied to a clan or district. It is worn today mainly at weddings, formal dinners and Highland games, often with a jacket and sporran. Wales has the traditional costume of a tall black hat, shawl and woollen dress, now seen mostly at festivals and school celebrations, and Welsh wool blankets are still woven. In England, Aran and Guernsey knitwear came out of fishing communities, and waxed cotton and tweed come from country working clothes. Day to day, people dress practically and casually: jeans, trainers, jumpers and a rain jacket carried even on bright mornings. In cities, smart casual is the norm, with suits mostly for offices and formal events. At the coast, people layer up, because a calm sunny morning can turn windy and cold. Visitors should pack layers, a light waterproof coat, and comfortable shoes with good grip for wet pavements, shingle and cliff paths. A warm hat and a fleece are useful even in summer, especially in Scotland and on the northern and western coasts. Swimwear is for the beach only, and people cover up in towns. Churches and cathedrals do not enforce strict dress, but shoulders and knees covered is a courteous choice, and sturdy boots are better than sandals for hills and moors.

What to eat

Plan it

Best time. May to September is the best stretch for coasts and islands, with the longest days and the mildest weather. June and July are brightest but busiest, and August is peak school-holiday time with high demand. Spring and early autumn are quieter, though any month can bring rain and wind.

How long. 5–7

Getting there. Fly into London Heathrow, Manchester, Edinburgh or Glasgow, then continue by train, coach or hire car. England is linked to France by the Channel Tunnel, and rail runs to most coastal towns. The UK is outside the Schengen area, so check visa rules before you book.

Budget. mid

Tips

Etiquette

Nearby

Sources