Zhengzhou

Zhengzhou, People's Republic of China

The Erqi Memorial Tower rises over February 7 Square in Zhengzhou at golden hour, with a path and plane trees leading toward it.

Zhengzhou pairs Shang-era earthen walls with a glassy new district, and sits a short trip from Shaolin's monastery.

The place

Zhengzhou is the capital of Henan province, in north-central China, and with about 12.6 million people it is a city of real weight rather than a quiet provincial seat. It lies on the southern bank of the Yellow River, where the land flattens out from the Xiong'er foothills into the North China Plain. That position explains most of what the city is: a crossing point. Railway lines and motorways meet here, and the airport and high-speed network make it a place many travellers pass through without stopping. The Zhongyuan, or Central Plains, region around it has been settled for thousands of years and is often described as a cradle of Chinese civilisation. Visitors find two cities laid over each other. The old core, around Erqi Square, is dense, busy and a little worn, with markets, older temples and heavy traffic. To the east, the Zhengdong New Area is planned on a grand scale, with wide avenues, a ring of towers around Ruyi Lake and glass business districts that look best at dusk. Summers are hot and sticky, winters are dry and cold, and the air can be hazy, so the shoulder seasons are kinder. Zhengzhou is not a place for a long list of famous monuments. It rewards a short stay built around its ancient walls, its noodles and its use as a base for the mountains and temples of western Henan.

Its story

Zhengzhou's deep past begins with the Shang dynasty, around 1600 BC, when a walled city stood near what is now the historic centre. Archaeologists have uncovered its remains, and some scholars link the site, or a settlement nearby, to the early Shang capitals known as Ao or Bo, though the identification is debated. The Shang rulers moved their capital repeatedly and left the area by the thirteenth century BC, yet people kept living on the site, and later Zhou tombs have been found there. After the Zhou conquered the Shang, one of the Zhou king's brothers was set up as ruler of a small state called Guan in this district. He joined a revolt that failed, but the name survived: Guancheng, 'Guan City', has been a county name ever since. In AD 587, under the Sui, the town became the seat of a prefecture, Guanzhou, and the modern name Zhengzhou, meaning Zheng Prefecture, comes from the same dynasty. For long stretches afterwards it was a regional city, valued for its position on the plain rather than for grandeur. The twentieth century brought a violent episode in June 1938, when Nationalist forces broke the Yellow River dikes at Huayuankou, north of the city, to slow the Japanese advance. That history is easy to miss under the modern skyline, which is mostly very recent.

What to see

Culture

Zhengzhou sits in the Central Plains, the region Chinese tradition treats as a heartland, and people here carry that with a mix of pride and dry humour. The city is no museum piece. Its character comes from ancient origins, Confucian and Buddhist heritage, and the practicality of a working transport hub. The Confucius Temple and the City God Temple in the older districts recall earlier civic and religious life, and both are quieter than the towers of the new area. Henan speech differs from textbook Mandarin, and locals are usually delighted when a visitor tries a few words. Meals are social and generous, with dishes pressed on guests and plates refilled, so refusing everything can seem cold. Shaolin, in the hills to the west, links the wider area to martial arts and Chan Buddhism. In the evenings, parks and squares fill with card games, dancing and families out for air. English is limited outside large hotels and stations, so a translation app and the place name written in Chinese characters are worth having. At temples in Zhengzhou, keep your voice low, never touch offerings or statues, and ask before photographing monks or worshippers.

What to wear

Zhengzhou has no single regional costume that people wear day to day, but the Central Plains is where much of Chinese dress history is set, and hanfu, the revived Han-style robes, is popular among young people for festivals and photo outings, especially around heritage sites. Traditional garments are made from silk, cotton and linen, with wide sleeves, crossed collars and sashes, and embroidery is a common finish. Tang-style jackets with frog fastenings appear at weddings and new year gatherings. Day to day, the city dresses like any large Chinese city: trainers, jeans, puffer jackets in winter, and smart-casual office wear in the business districts. Younger residents follow fashion from Beijing and Shanghai, and the shopping malls of Zhengdong show it. For visitors, the climate decides most things. Summers are hot and humid, so light cotton or linen, a hat and sun protection are sensible, with a small umbrella for rain. Winters are cold and dry, calling for a proper coat, scarf and layers. Comfortable walking shoes matter, since the city is spread out and temples such as Shaolin involve steps and uneven stone. Religious sites set no strict dress code, but covered shoulders and knees are respectful, and shorts or low tops can feel out of place in a monastery.

What to eat

Plan it

Best time. April–May and September–October, when temperatures are mild and the air is usually clearer; summers are hot and humid, and winters are cold and dry.

How long. 2–3

Getting there. Fly to the city's airport, which is linked to the centre by a metro extension and by mainline rail to Zhengzhou East Station. Zhengzhou is also a major rail hub, with high-speed trains from Beijing, Xi'an and Shanghai.

Budget. low

Tips

Etiquette

Nearby

Sources