Yerevan

Yerevan, Armenia

The pink tuff stone buildings of Republic Square in Yerevan during a golden sunset.

Yerevan is a compact, lively capital where Soviet-era boulevards, ancient stone churches and a view of Mount Ararat sit close together.

The place

Yerevan stands on the Hrazdan River at about 987 metres above sea level, and on a clear day the snowy cone of Mount Ararat fills the view to the south-west. It is Armenia's capital and its biggest city, home to about 1.1 million people. Government, the national museums, the main universities and most of the country's industry cluster here, so the city feels busier and more varied than anywhere else in the country. It has held the capital role since 1918, although the wider Ararat Plain has been a centre of power for far longer. The core is a tidy grid of pale volcanic stone buildings, with wide avenues running down toward the river and broad squares such as Republic Square. Pavement cafés fill up in the evening, and the pace of the city becomes easy once the main roads are left behind. Summers are hot and dry, and winters are cold enough for snow, so March and November are when most people enjoy walking. The Armenian Apostolic Church's seat has been at Vagharshapat since 1441, but Yerevan holds its largest diocese, and Soviet-era blocks stand alongside older churches and markets. The city is still working out how to be both modern and old, and that tension is much of its character.

Its story

Yerevan's history starts well before its name appears in the records. The Shengavit rise, in the south of the modern city, was settled during the early Bronze Age, and archaeologists have dug there in several phases over much of the last century. A joint project that included researchers from an American university later reached the lowest layers of the site, tracing a long run of occupation. The documented origins of the city lie in the fortress of Erebuni, founded in 782 BCE by King Argishti I of Urartu on the western edge of the Ararat Plain. Its builders intended it as a royal seat that joined government and worship, a stronghold guarding the plain and its routes. Later, Armenian kingdoms moved their capitals elsewhere, and the settlement lost much of its weight. A forced deportation of Armenians to Iran under the Safavid empire left the area largely emptied, and it was rebuilt slowly afterwards. Control then passed among Persian, Ottoman and Russian rulers, and the town grew into a provincial centre under the Russian Empire. The city became the capital of the First Republic of Armenia in 1918, a short-lived independent state. Under the Soviet Union it was rebuilt on a grand plan, with squares, government buildings and the stepped boulevards that still shape the centre. Since independence it has grown quickly, with new housing, a lively cultural scene and a steady flow of people from the countryside.

What to see

Culture

Yerevan is Armenia's main centre for culture and the arts, and its museums are the best place to understand the country's long history. The National Gallery of Armenia and the History Museum of Armenia are the city's principal museums, and both have long histories. The Matenadaran holds a remarkable collection of ancient manuscripts, while the Cafesjian Museum of Art shows modern and contemporary work in a setting near the Cascade. The Armenian Genocide Museum at the Tsitsernakaberd memorial complex is a serious and moving stop that many visitors make early in their stay. Vardavar, a summer festival marked by playful water throwing, brings people into the streets and is one of the most joyful days in the local calendar. The city remains one of the centres of traditional carpet weaving, and workshops keep older patterns alive for both locals and visitors. When you enter a church or monastery, cover your shoulders and knees and keep your voice low during services.

What to wear

Traditional Armenian dress varied by region and by village, and surviving costumes are mostly worn for festivals and folk performances rather than daily life. Embroidery and woven textiles were the main decorative tools, with wool and linen as the common materials and bright, geometric patterns often picked out in red and blue. Carpet weaving is the textile tradition most visitors meet first. Armenian rugs are woven by hand, usually in wool, and their motifs are passed down through families and workshops. In Yerevan today, people dress much as they would in any European capital: dark coats in winter, neat jackets and jeans in cafés and offices, and fashionable boutiques along the central streets. Visitors should plan for climate and place. Summers are hot, so light cotton or linen, a hat and sunglasses make sense, though a layer is useful for cool evenings. Winters can be cold, so a warm coat, gloves and waterproof shoes help. The hills and steps around the Cascade and the older streets reward flat, comfortable footwear. For churches and monasteries, cover your shoulders and knees, and carry a scarf for your head.

What to eat

Plan it

Best time. March and November are the most comfortable months, with mild days and clear views of Mount Ararat. Summers are hot and dry, and winters are cold with snow, which suits people who enjoy either heat or a quieter city.

How long. 2–3

Getting there. Zvartnots International Airport lies a short way out of town. Shuttle buses run into the centre, and official airport taxi desks are in the arrivals hall. Check the airport's official website for current bus and taxi details before you travel.

Budget. low

Tips

Etiquette

Nearby

Sources