Yakushima

Yakushima, Japan

An ancient cedar tree stands among mossy boulders and ferns in the misty Yakushima forest at sunrise.

Yakushima is a granite island of ancient cedar forest, mountain streams and waterfalls, best explored slowly on foot.

The place

Yakushima is a roughly round island about 60 kilometres south of the tip of the Ōsumi Peninsula, part of Kagoshima Prefecture in southern Kyushu. Its heart is a block of steep mountains, the highest reaching 1,935 metres, and cloud often hangs on them for days. The bedrock is granite rather than volcanic, so the peaks are weathered and sharp, and streams cut deep gorges that run fast after rain.

About two-fifths of the island lies inside Yakushima National Park, and that protected core is what draws most visitors. Forest covers the slopes, with old cedars, mossy trunks and ferns, while the coast is a narrow fringe of towns, roads and fruit groves. The population is about 13,000, most living in the port towns of Anbō and Miyanoura, with the airport between the two.

The island is also one of the wettest places in Japan. Rain is heavy from spring into early autumn, peaking in June, when landslides are a real risk on steep roads, while late autumn and winter are drier. Summers are hot and humid and winters mild, and the sea stays warm enough that the coast is never really cold. Electricity comes almost entirely from hydroelectric power, which surprises many people who expect an isolated backwater.

Daily life centres on the sea and the forest. Walks range from an hour to a full day, and the best forest light comes early, before the cloud builds.

Its story

Yakushima has been lived on since at least the Jōmon period, the long prehistoric era in which Japan's earliest settled communities took shape. Its name appears in early Chinese records, when an expedition sent in the seventh century noted the islanders as small but fierce, and a later expedition brought one back. The ancient Japanese chronicle Shoku Nihongi places the island within the old province of Tane, so it was already part of the wider Japanese world by the eighth century.

In the Edo period the island belonged to the Shimazu clan of the Satsuma Domain and counted as part of Ōsumi Province. After the Meiji Restoration it became part of Kagoshima Prefecture, where it remains. Timber has long shaped its economy, and the Yakusugi Museum tells the story of logging on the island, from the old trees that were cut to the forests protected today.

The geology explains much of the landscape. Granite rather than lava built the peaks, so there is no active volcano, and the high ground catches heavy rain that feeds rivers and hot springs alike. A narrow strait separates the island from Tanegashima, home to Japan's space centre, and rocket launches there can be seen from Yakushima.

Storms have shaped modern life as much as history. Typhoon Noru struck in 2017 and caused one death, and heavy rain regularly brings landslides to the roads. Ferry timetables are also weather-dependent, since sailings stop in rough seas.

What to see

Culture

Yakushima's culture is shaped by its forests and its sea more than by any single temple. Local people are proud of the island, live close to the weather, and expect visitors to respect the places that matter to them. Hot springs are a daily habit here, so wash thoroughly at the basins before entering a bath, keep towels out of the water, and keep voices low, especially early in the morning when locals are soaking. Beaches and onsen call for quiet and courtesy, and crowds at the best-known springs can spoil the experience, so going early or on a weekday helps. Photographing people at work or at local events should be done only after asking, and tipping is not expected. Visitors arriving with boots and packs are a common sight, so there is no need to explain yourself; simply behave as a considerate guest. Stay on marked paths, carry out every scrap of rubbish, and do not take cedar wood, moss or stones from the forest.

What to wear

Yakushima has no separate island costume that the sources I drew on describe, so its traditional dress is the same as the rest of Japan. The kimono, worn in silk or cotton, appears at festivals, weddings and formal occasions, while the lightweight cotton yukata is worn at inns and after a soak in a hot spring. Textiles follow mainland patterns and techniques, and the cloth is chosen for the season: cotton and linen in summer, heavier silk in winter.

Day to day, people here wear practical clothes: T-shirts, shorts, trousers, fleeces and rain jackets. Walking shoes and boots are the norm for anyone heading into the mountains, and sandals appear around the harbour and in the towns. Few people dress up unless they are going somewhere formal.

For a visit, pack quick-drying layers, a waterproof jacket and trousers that dry fast, and sturdy shoes with grip for wet rock and roots. Bring a sun hat and light, breathable clothes for the humid months. Modest, covered clothing suits shrines and temples, and swimwear is for beaches only, with proper dress expected in the towns.

What to eat

Plan it

Best time. Late October to November, when the rain eases and the forest is cooler. Spring is wet, and summer is very wet and humid, with the heaviest downpours and landslide risk.

How long. 3–4

Getting there. Fly to Yakushima Airport, which lies between Anbō and Miyanoura, or take a ferry from Kagoshima. The fast jetfoil from Kagoshima is the quicker sea option, though sailings stop in rough weather.

Budget. mid

Tips

Etiquette

Nearby

Sources