Whitehorse, Yukon

Whitehorse, Yukon, Canada

The historic S.S. Klondike sternwheeler sitting along the green banks of the Yukon River in Whitehorse during golden hour.

Go for the long northern summer light, a riverside town that works as a base for wild country, and a rare chance to see the Yukon up close.

The place

Whitehorse is the capital of Yukon, a territory in north-western Canada, and it is by a wide margin the biggest settlement in the north of the country. Roughly 28,000 people live here, which is most of the territory's population, so the town feels both small and central at once. It spreads along both banks of the Yukon River, with the older downtown on one side and the Riverdale neighbourhood on the other, linked by bridges. Mountains rise around the town on several sides, including Grey Mountain to the east and Golden Horn Mountain to the south. The river takes its name from a stretch of rapids that once ran through the valley. Those rapids are gone now, drowned beneath a reservoir created by a dam completed in 1958. The valley sits somewhat sheltered from the coast, so Whitehorse is milder than its latitude would suggest, although winters are long and dark, with days that shrink to a few hours of light. Summer is the reverse: the sun barely sets, and around 19 hours of daylight make evenings feel endless. Downtown is easy to walk, with cafés, shops and small museums, and the Alaska Highway runs through town, so many visitors arrive by road as well as by air. Expect a relaxed pace, and expect the town to empty out quickly once you leave it for the wilderness beyond.

Its story

Whitehorse grew from a long history of travel along the Yukon River, long before any town stood here. Archaeologists have found evidence of use by First Nations peoples over several thousand years at Canyon City, just south of the present downtown. Seasonal fish camps dotted the banks, and in 1883 the explorer Frederick Schwatka noted a portage trail that carried people around Miles Canyon. Several groups passed through the area each year, and their territories overlapped. Everything changed in August 1896, when gold was found in the Klondike by three men working together. The rush brought crowds north. Early prospectors had climbed the Chilkoot Pass, but by July 1897 steamboats were landing hopeful people at a spot called White Horse, where they camped in large numbers. By June 1898 a jam of prospectors had formed at Canyon City, boats were lost in the rapids, and five people died. The North-West Mounted Police officer Samuel Steele was struck by how few further disasters had occurred. Prospectors also found copper in the hills to the west, with the first claims staked in 1898 and 1899, and two short tramways carried the ore. A narrow-gauge railway from Skagway began construction in May 1898, tying the town to the coast. The rapids that gave Whitehorse its name were later submerged by a dam built in 1958, and the water now forms Schwatka Lake.

What to see

Culture

Whitehorse sits on land that several First Nations have known for thousands of years, and their presence is part of everyday life in the town rather than a museum exhibit. Local history is told through the river, the old portage routes and the gold rush, so visitors often find that a conversation about the landscape opens up more than a tour does. The town has a slow, friendly pace, and people are generally happy to talk about where they live. Respect for the environment runs deep here, and a local bylaw restricts motorised transport to specific roads within some protected zones to keep those landscapes in good condition. Keep your distance from wildlife, carry out what you bring in, and avoid driving on the riverbanks. Stay on designated roads and trails in protected areas, and never drive across the riverbank or the fragile ground beside it.

What to wear

Traditional dress in the Yukon drew on the materials the land provided: moosehide and other tanned hides, fur trim, and sinew-sewn seams. Decoration came through beadwork and quillwork, and some garments and moccasins were made to suit long journeys on foot and by canoe. Such clothing is still made and worn for ceremonies, gatherings and special occasions, and you may see it at cultural events in town. Day to day, people in Whitehorse dress for practicality: insulated jackets, fleece, waterproof shells, sturdy boots and warm hats, layered over whatever the weather has decided for the day. A visitor should pack for range rather than style. In summer, bring a light waterproof, long sleeves for the evenings and insect-proof clothing for the trails. In winter, a warm down or synthetic coat, thermal layers, gloves and boots with good grip are essential, because ice is common. Modesty norms are relaxed, though you should dress respectfully at cultural events.

What to eat

Plan it

Best time. Mid-June to August brings the long days, with around 19 hours of daylight and the warmest weather. Winter is cold and dark, which suits people who want northern lights and quiet, while late May and September are quieter shoulder months with cooler air.

How long. 2–3

Getting there. Fly into Erik Nielsen Whitehorse International Airport, with Air North flights from Vancouver taking about 2.5 hours. Many visitors also arrive by road on the Alaska Highway, and the airport is a short taxi ride from downtown.

Budget. mid

Tips

Etiquette

Nearby

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