Volubilis

Volubilis, Morocco

Low-angle view of the Roman ruins of Volubilis at sunrise with wildflowers in the foreground and the Zerhoun hills behind.

A partly excavated Roman city on the Moroccan plain, where Amazigh, Carthaginian, Roman and early Islamic layers still show in the stone.

The place

Volubilis is a partly excavated city in northern Morocco, set on fertile farmland near Meknes. Volubilis started out as a settlement of the Amazigh people, later acquired a proto-Carthaginian character, and might have served as the capital of the Mauretanian kingdom, especially during the reign of King Juba II. Under Roman rule it grew quickly from the 1st century AD, eventually covering about 42 hectares inside a wall circuit of roughly 2.6 km. Olive growing made the town prosperous, and that wealth paid for a basilica, a temple and a triumphal arch in the 2nd century, along with town houses floored in mosaic. The ruins now hold UNESCO World Heritage status, prized for how remarkably well preserved they are as a sizeable Roman colonial settlement at the far fringe of the empire. The site is open, flat and largely unshaded, so the heat of a Moroccan afternoon is considerable. Early morning and late afternoon bring softer light and cooler stone. Most visitors come as a day trip from Meknes or Fez, and a small number of hotels in the area suit those who want to stay longer. The nearby town of Moulay Idriss Zerhoun, with its religious buildings, is an easy addition to the same day.

Its story

The city's Roman-era prosperity rested largely on olive oil, and wealthy households filled their floors with mosaics showing gods, animals and everyday pleasures. Around 285 local tribes took the town, and Rome never retook it. Its remoteness and difficulty to defend on the south-western border of the empire made it a poor prize to hold. Life carried on for centuries afterwards. The community became Latinised and Christian, then an early Islamic settlement. Toward the close of the eighth century, Volubilis was made the base of Idris ibn Abdallah, who established the Idrisid dynasty. In 789, Idriss I reached this site, bringing the Muslim faith and establishing a new ruling line. By the 11th century power had moved to Fes, and many residents relocated to the nearby town of Moulay Idriss Zerhoun, roughly 5 km distant. The ruins stood largely intact until an earthquake in 1755 badly damaged them, and Moroccan rulers later took stone from the site to build Meknes. The ancient city was only firmly identified in the later 19th century. During the French period around half the site was excavated, revealing a remarkable set of mosaics, and some public buildings and grand houses were restored. Those excavations are why the site reads so clearly today.

What to see

Culture

Volubilis is a Roman site, but the people who live around it are Moroccan and mostly Muslim, and the everyday customs of the area come with them. Mint tea is the default offer of hospitality, and accepting a glass is a friendly gesture even if you only sip it. Greetings tend to be warm and unhurried, and a short conversation before any transaction is normal. Guides and touts gather near the entrance and in the town, offering tours and rides; a polite no is understood, and a licensed guide can be useful if you want the history explained. Moulay Idriss Zerhoun is a religious town, so keep voices low and dress modestly near its religious buildings. The Zawiya of Moulay Idris I is closed to non-Muslims, so admire it from outside. Ask before photographing local people, especially women and shopkeepers, and do not take pictures of them without a nod or a word of permission.

What to wear

Traditional dress around Volubilis follows the wider Moroccan pattern: the djellaba, a long, loose robe with a hood, is the classic garment for men and many women. Wool is used for winter versions and cotton for summer, and the robes are often worn over a plain tunic. Leather babouche slippers, backless and flat, complete the look and are still made by hand in many towns. Embroidered and woven textiles, from blankets to belts, use bold colour and geometric patterns. Today the mix is practical. Many people in Meknes and Moulay Idriss wear jeans and shirts for work and djellabas for prayer, weddings and cooler days, and headscarves are common among women, though not universal. For a visitor, lightweight cotton or linen in loose, long-sleeved layers keeps the sun off, and a wide-brimmed hat matters because there is very little shade on the ruins. Trousers or a long skirt are the right choice for the town's religious areas. Wear closed, sturdy shoes, since the paths are uneven, with loose stone and rough ground, and bring a light shawl for the evening.

What to eat

Plan it

Best time. April and October are the most comfortable months, when the ruins are warm but not punishing, and rain is lighter than in November. Summer is very hot and there is hardly any shade, so if you must visit then, go at opening time and leave before midday. Winter is the coolest season, with frosty mornings and rain on many days.

How long. 1–2

Getting there. Meknes is the usual base. From Meknes take local bus 15 from the roundabout near the grand taxi stand, or take a grand taxi from the rank opposite the French Institute, which takes about half an hour. A private taxi that waits while you visit is the simplest option for a day trip. Fez is also a day trip by coach tour.

Budget. low

Tips

Etiquette

Nearby

Sources