Volcanoes National Park

Volcanoes National Park, Rwanda

The sun rises over the volcanic peaks of Volcanoes National Park, framed by lobelia plants.

Go for time with mountain gorillas in the Virunga volcanoes' rainforest, a trek that rewards patience and a reasonable level of fitness.

The place

Volcanoes National Park sits in the far northwest of Rwanda, where land rises into a chain of volcanoes that forms part of the Virunga range. The park covers about 160 km² of forest and includes five of the range's eight peaks: Karisimbi, Bisoke, Muhabura, Gahinga and Sabyinyo. Its borders meet Virunga National Park in the Democratic Republic of the Congo and Mgahinga Gorilla National Park in Uganda, so the slopes lie close to the meeting point of three countries.

The landscape shifts quickly with altitude. Lower slopes are farmland and cultivated terraces, then come dense montane forest, then bamboo, and near the summits open grassland, swamp and heath. Visitors come mostly for the mountain gorilla and the golden monkey. Dian Fossey made the park her base for many years, and her research there still shapes how people understand it.

Conditions up high are cool and often damp, and the forest holds cloud even in drier months. The higher slopes feel colder than the lowland heat would suggest. Trekking is demanding, with steep, muddy paths, and the animals move when they choose, so the wildlife rather than the timetable sets the pace.

Its story

Volcanoes National Park began in 1925 as a small area around the slopes of Karisimbi, Bisoke and Mikeno, set aside to protect gorillas from poachers. It was the first national park created in Africa. It grew into the Albert National Park, which the Belgian colonial administration ran across what are now Rwanda and the Congo. By 1929 that larger Albert park covered 8,090 km², and both colonies fell under one administration.

Land use did not stay untouched. In 1958, 700 hectares within the park's boundaries were cleared to create a settlement for people. Between 1969 and 1973, about 1,050 hectares were cleared to grow pyrethrum, a daisy-like crop used in insecticides. During the 1970s and 1980s the Twa people, who had lived in the forest, were moved out of the park. Those decisions still shape debates about conservation and about who should benefit from it.

The park's modern reputation rests on the American researcher Dian Fossey, who arrived in 1967 and built a research centre on the slopes. Over the following years she spent most of her time among the gorillas and became the figure most associated with bringing their plight to outside attention. She was murdered at her home in 1985, a killing many people blame on the poachers she had opposed. Her life was later filmed in Gorillas in the Mist.

What to see

Culture

Volcanoes National Park works within Rwandan customs and within strict rules for the wildlife. Park guides set the pace on every trek, and their instructions come first, even when a gorilla group moves quickly. Visitors are asked to keep their distance from the animals, to stay in small groups, and to leave food in a safe place before approaching. Outside the park, many villages around Musanze are home to farming families, and a polite greeting goes a long way when meeting people. Ask before photographing anyone who is not part of your tour, and avoid pointing a camera at homes or children without permission. Never use flash near the gorillas, and in the park follow your guide's instructions at all times.

What to wear

Around Volcanoes National Park, traditional dress is closer to wrapped cloth than to tailored clothing. Many women have worn the kitenge, a printed cotton fabric wrapped or tied as a skirt or dress, and it remains common for church, weddings and public occasions across East Africa. Hand-woven and ceremonial cloth appears at cultural events, though everyday life favours printed fabric. Men have traditionally worn simple wrapped or tailored garments. Today most people in towns such as Musanze dress in ordinary Western clothes and save fabric for special occasions.

For visitors, the forest matters more than fashion. Long trousers and long sleeves suit the trails, which pass through nettles and wet vegetation. Sturdy waterproof boots with good grip are essential, since paths are steep and muddy. A rain jacket and warm layers help, as the higher slopes can be cold and damp even when the lowlands are warm. Gloves are useful for steadying yourself on branches. Outside the park, visitors should dress modestly, especially for church visits and when entering villages.

What to eat

Plan it

Best time. The driest months, June to August, are easiest for trekking because the forest paths are less slippery. The rainy months bring mud and heavier cloud, and the trails become harder going.

How long. 2–3

Getting there. Fly into Kigali International Airport, then take a paved road northwest to Musanze. Park headquarters is reached by paved road, but trailheads may need a 4WD, so arrange transport before you reach the visitor centre.

Budget. high

Tips

Etiquette

Nearby

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