Vinicunca

Vinicunca, Peru

The multi-coloured slopes of Vinicunca mountain at sunrise in Peru.

Vinicunca's striped slopes, at about 5,000 metres in the Cusco hills, make a long, thin-aired day trip worth the early start.

The place

Vinicunca sits in the Andes of southern Peru at 5,036 metres above sea level, a few hours' drive southeast of the city of Cusco. It is also called Montaña de Siete Colores or Rainbow Mountain, and it stands on the approach to Ausangate, one of the region's large snow peaks. From the valley floor the slope looks painted, with bands of red, ochre, yellow, green and pale cream running down its flanks. The colours come from the minerals in the rock rather than from paint or vegetation, and they look most vivid when the light is low and clear.

For most of its history the mountain was a remote high place known mainly to herders. Its upper slopes were once capped with glacier ice, which has since retreated, leaving bare banded rock that shows the stripes more plainly. In recent years the stripes have drawn large numbers of visitors, and the valley has changed from a quiet pasture into a busy day-trip circuit. Access is still rough. The final stretch is a narrow dirt road, and the summit is reached only on foot or on horseback, so the place feels more remote than its photographs suggest.

The climb is the hard part. Altitude is the main hazard, and a spell of acclimatising in Cusco before the walk is sensible. Weather turns quickly in these mountains: the sun can be fierce by midday, while nights are cold and snow is not unusual. Pitumarca and Cusipata are the usual starting points, and the path is well marked enough to follow without a guide.

Its story

The story of Vinicunca is partly geological and partly about the people who live around it. The stripes were laid down over long spans of time as minerals in the rock were deposited and altered, and the reds, yellows and greens visible today are the record of that process. Local families knew these slopes long before outsiders took an interest, grazing alpacas and llamas on the high pasture and walking old routes between hamlets.

The mountain was once crowned with glacier ice. As the ice pulled back, the bare banded rock became more visible, and that change is part of why the colours now look so striking. Photographs spread faster than the trail could cope with. Within a fairly short period the place moved from a remote herders' landmark to a stop on the tourist circuit from Cusco, and the change arrived quickly for communities that had few roads and little infrastructure.

Tourism has brought money and friction in roughly equal measure. Some villagers sell snacks, horse rides and bottled drinks, and that income matters in households where livestock is the main resource. Other residents worry about litter, trampled ground and crowds at the viewpoint. Discussion about how to manage visitor numbers, where to park and how to share the benefits is still going on, and the answers are still taking shape.

What to see

Culture

Vinicunca lies in the Quechua-speaking Andes, where many families still keep herds of alpacas and llamas and speak Quechua at home. The valley communities are hosts of the trail, not a backdrop for photographs. Their houses, fields and grazing land lie close to the path, and walkers pass through them on the way up.

Local customs about land and livestock matter. Animals and their fleeces are a family's main resource, and people here have long depended on pasture rather than wage work. Asking before entering a yard, pausing when a family is herding, and treating paths as shared routes all reflect ordinary courtesy in these villages.

Photography needs care. Portraits of people in traditional dress are often expected to be paid for once the picture is taken. Some residents are glad to pose, while others prefer not to be photographed at all. Asking first, with a gesture towards the camera, is the usual way to avoid awkwardness. Ask before photographing people or animals, and agree any payment before the picture is taken.

What to wear

Vinicunca's valley communities wear the layered dress typical of the Cusco highlands, and the colours of the mountain are echoed in their textiles. Women traditionally wear full pleated skirts, embroidered blouses and a woven shawl, often used to carry a load on the back, along with brimmed or felt hats. The cloth is mostly wool from alpaca or sheep, spun and woven by hand and dyed in red, pink, orange and green. Patterns often carry local meaning, and weaving skills are passed down within families.

Most people now mix this with everyday clothing. Younger people may wear jeans, jackets and trainers in town, switching to traditional dress for festivals, market days or formal occasions. Outdoor work calls for practical layers, and knitted hats, gloves and waterproof jackets sit alongside the older garments.

For a visit, dress for a mountain that changes quickly. Days can be warm in strong sun, nights are cold, and snow is possible, so pack a warm mid-layer, a windproof shell, sun protection and a hat. Sturdy trainers or boots with grip suit the rocky and muddy paths, and sunglasses help against high-altitude glare. Modest clothing is appreciated in villages, so leave revealing outfits for the city.

What to eat

Plan it

Best time. May to September is the dry season and the usual window for the trail. December to February brings significant rain, so the path can turn slippery and the views may be hidden. Expect cold nights and strong sun in any month.

How long. 1–2

Getting there. Fly or travel to Cusco, then drive two to three and a half hours to Cusipata or Pitumarca, depending on route. The last stretch is a narrow dirt road, so a hired car or a day tour is the simplest option, followed by a walk up to the summit.

Budget. mid

Tips

Etiquette

Nearby

Sources