Varkala

Varkala, India

A low-angle view of the red laterite cliffs of Varkala meeting the sandy beach at sunset.

Go for a beach that sits under red-brown cliffs, combined with a temple town, cheap cafés and a quieter coast in the off-season.

The place

Varkala is a town of 42,273 people in Thiruvananthapuram district, on the coast of Kerala in south-west India, about 50 km from the state capital. It is best known for a line of laterite cliffs that runs for roughly 7.5 km along the Arabian Sea, where the land drops almost straight into the water and a thin band of sand waits at the bottom. The town sits about 190 metres above sea level, and the coast stays warm and humid for much of the year.

The cliffs are as much geology as scenery. Sandstone beds laid down in the Miocene and Pliocene were worn away and then lifted, exposing layers of laterite and streaks of lignite and marcasite that rest on much older rock. The Geological Survey of India has declared the formation a National Geological Monument, so the walk along the cliff top rewards slow walking and a look down at the layers.

Beyond the sea, Varkala has a long religious life. The Janardhana Swami temple, dedicated to Vishnu, stands on the hill above the town and has drawn pilgrims for centuries, which is why the place carries the nickname Southern Kasi. The cliff tops also hold cafés, Ayurvedic centres and guesthouses, and the town has only recently grown into a beach destination, which shows in its small, improvised feel.

Its story

Varkala's story runs between the temple on the hill and the ground beneath the cliffs. Hindu pilgrims have come to the Janardhana Swami temple since the 12th century, and the temple is traditionally said to be about 2000 years old. Its presence explains why the sands below have long been a meeting place for people from very different traditions, a mix of devotion, trade and curiosity that still shapes the town's easygoing atmosphere.

The town's modern identity owes much to Sree Narayana Guru, a saint, social reformer and philosopher who made Varkala his headquarters and who led the Ezhava community. The Sivagiri mutt he founded became a second major pilgrim centre, and the pilgrimage held there around the turn of the year still draws large crowds. His reforms in caste and education are still discussed across Kerala, and the mutt remains a place of study as well as prayer.

For most of its history the cliffs were home to fishing families and temple life rather than holidaymakers. Foreign visitors arrived only in recent decades, drawn by the long beach and by rooms that cost less than the resorts further south. Cafés and seasonal restaurants gradually appeared along the cliff tops, opening as the main season begins and closing when the monsoon arrives. The result is a town that still feels half working fishing village and half pilgrim town, with the tourist trade layered over the top.

What to see

Culture

Varkala is a pilgrim town as well as a beach town, and its religious sites set the tone for everyday life. The Janardhana Swami temple on the hill is a Hindu place of worship, and devotees come through the year. Non-Hindus may not enter the inner sanctum but can spend time in the outer grounds, where the atmosphere is calm and the views are good. At the Sivagiri mutt, the pilgrimage around the turn of the year brings large crowds and processions, and the mutt expects visitors to keep the same restraint. Papanasam Beach is used for the Vavu bali rite, when families gather at the sea, so photographs of people at ritual moments should be avoided unless permission is given. Fishermen work the shore in the early morning, and their boats and nets are part of working life rather than props. Keep shoulders and knees covered at the temple and at Sivagiri, and ask before photographing anyone at a ritual.

What to wear

Varkala's traditional dress is the same as much of Kerala's: the white cotton mundu for men, a long wrap often worn with a plain shirt, and the cream saree with a gold border called kasavu for women, usually woven in cotton or silk and worn at festivals and weddings. Kasavu borders are woven with gold or zari thread, and the cloth is still a point of pride for many families.

What people wear now is a mix. On the beach and along the cliffs, Western casual clothes and swimwear are common, and many local women wear kurtas, leggings or sarees in the town. Men often wear a lungi, a checked sarong, at home or when relaxing. Modest dress is the norm away from the sand, and most people dress more formally for temple visits.

A visitor should wear loose, light cotton that keeps the sun off and breathes in the humidity. Carry a sarong or light shawl so that shoulders and knees can be covered at the temple and Sivagiri, and pull on a sarong over swimwear when leaving the beach. Sturdy sandals with grip suit the cliff steps and the sand, and a hat helps during the midday heat.

What to eat

Plan it

Best time. December to March is the main season, with dry weather and the busiest beaches. December and early January are the peak and the most expensive, while February and March are calmer. The monsoon from June to September brings heavy rain, with October the wettest month, so the sea is rough and cliff paths get slippery.

How long. 2–3

Getting there. Trivandrum International Airport is about 50 km away, roughly 1 hr 15 min by road. Trains from Thiruvananthapuram and Kochi are the easier option, since most passing trains stop at Varkala. From the station, a taxi or auto-rickshaw takes you to the cliffs, and state buses also run from Thiruvananthapuram.

Budget. mid

Tips

Etiquette

Nearby

Sources