Santiago de Cuba

Santiago de Cuba, Cuba

The Castillo San Pedro de la Roca fortress glows at sunset above the Caribbean, seen from a low stone path.

Santiago de Cuba is a hot, musical port city of steep streets and old forts, where Cuba's story is told far from Havana.

The place

Santiago de Cuba sits in the south-east of the island, about 870 km from Havana, on a bay that opens onto the Caribbean. The Sierra Maestra crowds in from the landward side, so the city climbs and drops over steep streets, and its centre stands 82 m above sea level. About half a million people live here, which makes it the second city of Cuba and the capital of its province. The municipality is large and takes in villages and old pilgrimage and mining settlements such as El Cobre, El Caney and Siboney, so a day out from the centre can mean a stretch of coast, a hillside church or a battlefield park. The climate is hot and humid, and the bay holds that heat. Afternoons are slow, and much of life moves to doorways, plazas and rooftops after dark. This is a working port, not a resort: cranes, rusting hulls and fish stalls share the waterfront with bars that serve rum and cheap beer. The mood is more Afro-Caribbean and more openly musical than in the capital, and rhythm drifts out of windows at almost any hour. Visitors expecting polish find peeling colonial façades, patched pavements and the occasional power cut. Those who stay a few days find conversation, dancing and a city that does not perform for tourists. Because it is far from Havana, most people reach it by a long road or rail journey and then stay several days.

Its story

Santiago de Cuba was founded in 1514 by the Spanish conqueror Diego Velázquez de Cuéllar, and it was among the first towns on the island. A fire damaged the young settlement soon afterwards, and it was rebuilt at once. Expeditions to Mexico under Juan de Grijalba and Hernán Cortés set out from here, and Hernando de Soto later sailed from the same coast for Florida. A cathedral rose in 1528, and between 1522 and 1589 Santiago served as the capital of the colony before Havana took over that role. A harbour that sheltered ships also drew attackers: French forces plundered the town in 1553, English raiders did the same in 1603, and English ships under Christopher Myngs struck again in 1662. Late in the eighteenth century and early in the nineteenth, settlers from France and Britain added to the mix. The largest wave came in 1803, when about eighteen thousand people fled Saint-Domingue as the Haitian revolution reached its end. They included French colonists, free people of colour and freed Africans, and they brought coffee-growing skills, music, dance and cooking that still colour the city's culture. In later centuries Santiago became a base for Cuba's independence movements and for the revolution that triumphed in 1959, which is why plaques, statues and small museums to rebels are scattered across its hills.

What to see

Culture

Santiago de Cuba has a deep musical and literary life, and much of it still happens on the street. The poet José María Heredia was born here, and the Teatro Heredia carries his name; its façade bears a mural portrait of Juan Almeida Bosque, a commander in the revolution. Several of the singers and guitarists who appeared in the film Buena Vista Social Club, including Compay Segundo, Ibrahim Ferrer and Eliades Ochoa, came from the city or nearby villages, as did the trova songwriter Ñico Saquito. That tradition of son and trova survives in small music rooms, courtyards and on the plaza benches, where an impromptu guitar session is normal. The Bacardí rum brand began here in 1862, and the family's art collection now fills a museum. Afro-Cuban faith and the Catholic church sit close together in daily life, most visibly at El Cobre, whose shrine draws pilgrims from across the island. The city's carnival, held in July, is loud, hot and crowded, with processions, brass bands and drumming. Haitian and French influence from the early nineteenth century still shows in dance and food. When a musician plays at your table or on the street, tip a little in cash, and ask before photographing anyone, especially at religious ceremonies.

What to wear

Santiago de Cuba has no single formal costume, but a few garments carry local meaning. The guayabera, a loose cotton or linen shirt with pleats and four pockets, is worn by older men for celebrations and formal occasions, and by musicians on stage. Dancers and carnival groups wear bright ruffled cotton and satin, with sequins, feathers and head-wraps that echo Afro-Cuban and Haitian-Caribbean traditions. Religious devotees may dress in white for certain ceremonies. Day to day, most people dress for the heat: light shorts, sleeveless tops, sandals and cotton dresses, with a dressier shirt or dress for an evening out. Clothing is often mended and reused, and neat, pressed outfits matter more than labels. Visitors should pack breathable fabrics such as cotton and linen, a sun hat and sunglasses, and comfortable shoes with grip, since pavements are uneven and the hills are steep. Sandals are fine for most days, but closed shoes help at the fortress and on hillside paths. Cover shoulders and knees when entering a church or the shrine at El Cobre. Evenings stay warm, so a thin layer is only needed for air-conditioned buses and rain showers.

What to eat

Plan it

Best time. December to March is the most comfortable stretch, with lower humidity and cooler evenings. Summer is hot and humid, and the Atlantic hurricane season runs from June to November. July brings carnival, with crowds and higher demand for rooms.

How long. 3–4

Getting there. Santiago de Cuba has its own airport, with domestic flights from Havana; check current schedules. By road, the local bus from Havana takes about 15 hours and the express overnight service about 12. Trains run only every few days and are often late, so confirm timings locally. From the station or bus stop, a taxi is the easiest last leg, especially to the remote bus station.

Budget. low

Tips

Etiquette

Nearby

Sources