Quito

Quito, Ecuador

A low-angle view of Plaza Grande in Quito at sunrise, framed by a stone balcony with a wrought-iron lantern.

Come for a high-Andes capital with a remarkably intact colonial centre, world-class museums and volcano views, then plan slow mornings for the altitude.

The place

Quito lies in a long valley on the eastern side of Pichincha, a volcano that still shapes the skyline and the weather. At about 2,850 metres, it is one of the highest capitals anywhere, so the first day tends to feel slower than expected. Walk gently, drink water and save the steep climbs for later. Officially San Francisco de Quito, the city is the seat of Ecuador's government and home to most of its major administrative and cultural institutions. Many multinational companies working in the country are based here too, and Quito shares the role of industrial heartland with the port city of Guayaquil. The city proper has roughly 1.8 million residents, and the sprawl around it is much larger, so this is a city of neighbourhoods rather than a compact old town. Most visitors spend their time in the colonial historic centre, the Mariscal district with its restaurants and bars, and the green hills of Itchimbia and El Panecillo, which give wide views over the valley. Nights are cool, midday sun is strong, and the weather can change within an hour, so pack layers and a light waterproof.

Its story

People have lived in the Quito basin for thousands of years. Archaeologists working on the slopes of the Ilaló volcano, east of the city, found obsidian tools left by hunter-gatherers, and a larger prehistoric village in the Cotocollao neighbourhood to the northwest. That village had rectangular houses set among irrigation channels fed by many creeks, and its burials included pottery and stone offerings. Later, the valley was home to Quitu-Cara communities who lived by farming and trade, and the name Kitu, used in Quechua, survives in the city's name. When Spanish conquerors arrived in the Andes, they founded the city in 1534 on a grid of streets around a central square. Churches, convents and mansions rose on that grid, and much of the old centre still follows the original layout. Over the centuries Quito was a regional centre of art and craft, and its painters and sculptors produced the distinctive Quito School style, visible in churches across the centre. Earthquakes, fires and the independence struggles all left marks, yet the colonial core has survived well enough to be recognised for its heritage. Today the historic centre sits beside modern Quito, where government buildings and new neighbourhoods have grown up across the valley.

What to see

Culture

Quito's culture is rooted in its colonial churches, its Indigenous markets and its strong sense of local pride, and visitors feel it most in the historic centre. Many churches are active places of worship, so behaviour inside is expected to be quiet and respectful. Spanish is the main language, and a simple buenos días before asking for anything is welcomed. Greetings between friends and acquaintances often include a single kiss on the cheek, though strangers usually just shake hands. Quechua is still spoken in some rural areas and in parts of the market economy, and you will hear it occasionally in the city. Mealtimes are unhurried, and it is normal to linger over lunch, which is often the main meal of the day. Tipping is less formal than in some countries, with a small amount for good service being appreciated. Outside the centre, take the usual urban precautions and use registered taxis or app-based rides after dark. When entering a church, keep your voice low and ask before photographing people at a market or a festival.

What to wear

Traditional dress in and around Quito centres on textiles. Indigenous women from the highland communities often wear pleated skirts called polleras, embroidered blouses and shawls, sometimes with wool or silk embroidery and gold-coloured beads. Men traditionally wear wool ponchos and felt hats, and the Panama-style straw hat known as the sombrero de paja toquilla is strongly associated with Ecuador. Weaving on the looms of nearby towns produces wool and alpaca ponchos, scarves and blankets that appear in Quito's markets. Day to day, people in the city dress much like city dwellers anywhere, in jeans, jackets, trainers and smart office wear, with the occasional traditional piece for festivals or market days. For visitors, the sensible approach is layers: a warm jumper or fleece for cool evenings, a light waterproof for sudden rain and a hat and sunscreen for strong midday sun at altitude. Comfortable shoes with good grip suit the steep, uneven pavements. Churches expect shoulders and knees to be covered, so carry a scarf for those visits.

What to eat

Plan it

Best time. July and August are the driest months and give the clearest views of the volcanoes, though nights are cold. The rain is heaviest from January to May, and it also falls in October to December, so expect afternoon showers then.

How long. 3–4

Getting there. Mariscal Sucre International Airport, which has one terminal with domestic and international sections; from there take a registered taxi or app-based ride to the centre, allowing extra time at busy hours.

Budget. low

Tips

Etiquette

Nearby

Sources