Prince Edward Island

Prince Edward Island, Canada

Low-angle shot across red sand and marram dunes under a warm golden sunset on Prince Edward Island.

A small Gulf island of red sand, farmland and lobster suppers, reached by bridge and best enjoyed in the shoulder months.

The place

Prince Edward Island is a small island province of Canada, the smallest in both land area and population, yet the most densely populated province in the country. It has earned several nicknames. The Garden of the Gulf refers to its farmland, and the Birthplace of Confederation recalls the 1864 Charlottetown Conference, which started the talks that led to the country's union. Charlottetown, the capital and largest city, sits on a harbour on the south shore, and most of the island's government, shops and festivals gather there.

Away from the capital the island is mainly farmland, small villages and coastline. Red soil shows between rows of potatoes in summer, and church steeples and fishing harbours mark the Gulf shore. The north coast has long sand beaches and dunes, and at low tide the water pulls far back across the flats, so a walk can feel very wide. The south and east shores are more sheltered, with cliffs and a lighthouse at the far southeastern tip.

Most travellers come in July and August, when the beaches are busiest and accommodation in Cavendish and Charlottetown fills quickly. Early summer and early autumn are calmer, and cool sea breezes keep the days comfortable compared with many inland Canadian summers. Winter is quiet, with ice along the shore and many seasonal businesses closed until spring.

Its story

Prince Edward Island's history begins with the Mi'kmaq, whose homeland, Mi'kma'ki, covers a wide area of the Maritimes. The island formed part of the district called Epekwitk aq Piktuk, a name often rendered in English as Abegweit and understood to mean land resting on the waves. Before European rule, communities here were guided by local chiefs, a council of women and keepers of wampum records, with a grand chief at the head of the wider district.

The Mi'kmaq hold Peace and Friendship Treaties with the Crown, which still protect their rights across the homeland. Today the island's two Mi'kmaw communities, Abegweit and Lennox Island First Nations, run their affairs through band governments. Mi'kmaw oral tradition also reaches back to Glooscap, a figure who appears in Wabanaki stories as a hero and as the first person.

European claims began in 1604, when the French placed the island within Acadia and called it Isle St-Jean. Britain took it at the end of the Seven Years' War in 1763, and it was administered as part of Nova Scotia until it became a colony of its own in 1769. The island was renamed Prince Edward in 1798, and the new name stuck.

The island's most important political moment came in 1864, when delegates met in Charlottetown to discuss uniting the Maritime colonies. That meeting led to wider talks and to Canadian Confederation on July 1, 1867, which is why the island calls itself the Birthplace of Confederation.

Local legend adds a different kind of history. The Ghost Ship of the Northumberland Strait is said to appear at nightfall, wrapped in flames, and rescue crews who set out for it always find that it has drifted out of reach.

What to see

Culture

Culture on Prince Edward Island is shaped by its size, with small communities, strong local ties and a calendar of music, theatre and seasonal suppers. The arts are supported through the public schools, and the annual Charlottetown Festival, staged at the Confederation Centre of the Arts, keeps theatre and music at the centre of summer. Much of the island's identity also comes from the writer L. M. Montgomery, born in Clifton, now New London, whose novel took its setting from the land around her. A musical version has been staged at the Charlottetown festival for decades, and the sequel, Anne & Gilbert, premiered at the Playhouse in Victoria. Mi'kmaw culture is part of this picture too, and Mi'kmaw communities keep their own ceremonies, crafts and traditions alive. Visitors should expect a relaxed, neighbourly tone at church suppers and community events. Ask before photographing anyone at a community supper or Mi'kmaw event, and follow the hosts' lead on seating and when to help yourself.

What to wear

Traditional dress on Prince Edward Island is best understood through the island's Mi'kmaw and Acadian roots and the materials those communities worked with. Mi'kmaw craft is known for beadwork and quillwork, applied to clothing, bags and regalia, and worn at powwows and gatherings across the Maritimes. Acadian and other settler families relied on wool, linen and homespun cloth, and on knitted garments suited to damp Gulf winds. Today most people dress for work and weather: jeans, fleece, waterproof jackets and sturdy boots, with fishing crews in oilskins and rubber boots on the wharves. Community suppers and church events are casual but tidy. For a visit, pack for layers, because the wind off the Gulf can make a warm day feel cool. A windproof jacket, a light sweater and walking shoes with good grip suit dune paths and cliff tops. Dress modestly for churches and cemeteries, and keep swimwear for the beach.

What to eat

Plan it

Best time. June to September is the main season, with August the hottest month and July and August the busiest, while June is milder and September stays warm but calmer, with sea breezes easing the afternoons. Winter is quiet, with ice along the shore and many seasonal businesses closed.

How long. 3–4

Getting there. Drive across the Confederation Bridge from New Brunswick, the only fixed road link to the island; a passenger shuttle serves walkers and cyclists across the same span. Or fly into a larger mainland airport such as Halifax or Moncton and hire a car or take a shuttle for the final leg.

Budget. mid

Tips

Etiquette

Nearby

Sources