Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh, Cambodia

The golden spires of the Royal Palace in Phnom Penh at sunset.

Cambodia's capital is a riverside city of cafés, royal gilt and a sobering history, best seen slowly over three or four days.

The place

Phnom Penh sits where the Tonlé Sap and the Mekong rivers meet, about 11 metres above sea level, and is home to roughly 2.1 million people. It is the Cambodian capital and the main hub for government, business, universities and the arts, so much of the country's political and economic life runs through it. The city's name comes from Wat Phnom, a hilltop Buddhist temple, and from Lady Penh, the woman credited with founding it. The streets are easier to read than the population figure suggests. The riverfront promenade, the Royal Palace and the leafy boulevards near the old centre fit comfortably into one walk, and a tuk-tuk covers the rest. The monarchy still has its seat here, so the palace grounds and gilded halls are part of daily ceremony as well as tourism. Expect heat, heavy traffic on the main roads and a steady flow of motorbikes at all hours. The rainy months bring short, heavy downpours that usually clear by evening, which makes early starts sensible. Food stalls, bakeries and cheap cafés line the side streets, and the centre is compact enough that most museums and markets are reachable without a long drive. It rewards slow mornings and unhurried evenings more than a checklist.

Its story

Phnom Penh's story begins well before its name appears in written records. Archaeologists working in the southern part of the city have found kiln sites that made ceremonial vessels over many centuries, along with traces of a large earthen enclosure and village irrigation from the Angkorian period. The founding legend is more personal. It describes a local woman, Lady Penh, who lived beside the rivers and gathered a small community around a hill that later became Wat Phnom. The city was founded in 1372 and became the Khmer capital in 1434, after the fall of Angkor pushed the court south. It kept that role until 1497, and it regained the title much later, under French colonial rule. In the decades that followed, the French-era and New Khmer buildings, Art Deco blocks and leafy avenues earned the city its nickname, the Pearl of Asia. Growth continued as refugees arrived from the civil wars of the 1960s and 1970s. In 1975 the Khmer Rouge forced the entire population out into the countryside, and the city stood largely empty for several years. Vietnamese-backed forces took it in 1979. Today the city is busy and rebuilding, and its memorials are part of how it speaks about that period.

What to see

Culture

Phnom Penh carries its recent past openly, and visitors are expected to treat it with care. Music is lively here: indie bands and private music schools have multiplied, and the city's stages host events through much of the year. The Cambodian fishing dance was developed at the Royal University of Fine Arts in the 1960s, and its performances offer a good introduction to classical movement. The largest annual festival is the Water Festival, which celebrates the reversal of the Tonlé Sap's flow with boat races, fireworks and concerts over three days, and the city fills with visitors. The crowds can be dense. In 2010 a bridge stampede at the festival killed at least 348 people, so keep to the edges of crowds and avoid bridges when they are packed. Monks are a common sight; ask before photographing them, and never touch them. Remove your shoes before entering any pagoda hall or Royal Palace building.

What to wear

Traditional Khmer dress centres on the sampot, a long wrap of woven cloth worn by women and men, often made in silk or cotton with woven patterns. Women may wear it with a fitted blouse, and at ceremonies silk versions are woven with metallic threads and bold borders. The krama, a checked cotton scarf, is worn over the shoulders, around the neck or on the head, and it doubles as a practical item for shade and sweat. In Phnom Penh today most people wear jeans, cotton trousers, t-shirts and trainers, with dresses and tailored outfits for work and nights out. Monks wear saffron or maroon robes, and older people may still wear sampot at home or at festivals. As a visitor, dress for heat: light cotton, loose trousers or knee-length skirts, and sleeves. At pagodas and the Royal Palace, cover shoulders and knees, and carry a light shawl you can drape. Comfortable closed shoes suit the uneven pavements, and sandals are fine in the rainy months if you watch your footing.

What to eat

Plan it

Best time. December to February brings the coolest and driest weather; March and April are the hottest months before the rains; May to November is the rainy season, with humid days and heavy afternoon storms.

How long. 2–3

Getting there. Fly into Techo International Airport, then take the airport bus or a taxi into the centre, about an hour; check the official site for current fares and times.

Budget. low

Tips

Etiquette

Nearby

Sources