Palenque

Palenque, Mexico

The limestone Palace of Palenque emerging from the jungle at sunrise.

Palenque packs some of the finest Maya stone carving into a jungle site you can walk round in a morning or a lazy day.

The place

Palenque was a Maya city-state in the Chiapas lowlands of southern Mexico, close to the Usumacinta River and a short drive from the modern town that now shares its name. Its ruins lie in rainforest that was once part of the city's own surroundings. After the city declined, the jungle closed over the stonework, and much of what visitors see today has been cleared, excavated and restored. The climate is hot and wet. Expect a humid average of about 26 °C and roughly 2,160 mm of rain in a typical year, so the early mornings are the best time to walk between temples.

The site is modest in size compared with some other Maya cities, but its architecture is exceptional. Temple platforms rise in tiered terraces, the stucco and relief panels are finely cut, and the roof combs that once crowned the buildings still hold the eye. Much of what we know about Palenque comes from its inscriptions, which record a long royal line and its rivalries with neighbouring cities. Only a small fraction of the city has been dug out, and the forest still hides many more mounds beneath its canopy.

The modern town sits beside the ruins with a small central square, hotels and a few places to eat, and the wider region has waterfalls and river pools within reach. The site carries a UNESCO World Heritage listing. Go in the early hours, carry water and expect to walk on uneven stone for most of the visit.

Its story

Palenque's early history is hard to read. The founder of its dynasty, K'uk' Bahlam I, appears in the Temple of the Foliated Cross with a title tied to sacred kingship, and the inscriptions use a wide range of emblem glyphs, which hints at a crowded and layered political world. What is clearer is the pressure the city faced. Its larger rival Calakmul and that rival's allies attacked in 599 and again in 611, and the famous buildings visitors see today probably reflect a rebuilding effort in response.

The rebuilding was led in large part by K'inich Janaab' Pakal, known as Pacal the Great, who ruled from 615 to 683. Under his rule, the city's artistic and building traditions flourished anew. He is best remembered through the Temple of the Inscriptions, a terraced monument raised over his tomb. The long text in its upper walls gave the temple its name. When Alberto Ruz Lhuillier excavated the burial, it was the richest and best-preserved scientifically excavated tomb of its kind known from the ancient Americas at the time. That status was later overtaken by other finds, including the burials at Sipán in Peru.

Palenque is also valued for its writing. The hieroglyphic texts made under Pakal, his son K'inich Kan Bahlam II and his grandson K'inich Akal Mo' Naab cover much of the city's history. Heinrich Berlin, and later Linda Schele and Peter Mathews, used them to set out the first dynastic list for any Maya city. Much of what we know about the royal line, and its feuds with states such as Calakmul and Toniná, comes from reading these carvings rather than from any single chronicle.

What to see

Culture

Palenque is both an archaeological park and a living Maya region, and the villages around it keep their own customs and languages. Many people you meet, in the town and in outlying communities, speak a Mayan language alongside Spanish, and a short greeting such as 'buenos días' or 'buenas tardes' is warmly received at a stall or guesthouse. Local guides take pride in the ruins and often explain the carvings in careful detail, and a tip for a good guide is customary. Religious life in the region is strong, with festivals that bring processions, music and crowds, so pause before you join in or photograph anything. In the town, evenings are quiet and most places close earlier than visitors from big cities expect, so plan supper accordingly. Haggling is part of some markets, but keep it good-humoured and do not push prices down on handicrafts that took weeks to make. Ask before photographing people at festivals, and keep to the marked paths at the site, never climbing on the stone platforms or touching carved panels.

What to wear

Palenque sits in Chiapas, where Maya communities have long woven and embroidered their own dress, and the traditional garment is the huipil, a loose blouse or tunic with embroidered panels. Designs vary from village to village and carry local symbols, worked in cotton on the backstrap loom, with wool used for warmer highland pieces. Skirts, sashes and shawls complete the outfit, and women wear them for church, festivals and market days. Many people in the town and nearby villages now dress in ordinary Western clothes for work and school, keeping the huipil and other traditional pieces for ceremonies and special occasions, though you will still see them in daily life in outlying communities. Around the ruins, people mostly wear light cotton shirts, shorts or long trousers, and simple sun hats. For your own visit, the climate is hot and humid, so choose loose, breathable cotton or linen that dries quickly. Wear closed shoes with good grip, since stone steps and paths are slippery after rain. Cover shoulders and knees when you visit villages or churches, and take a light layer for air-conditioned buses.

What to eat

Plan it

Best time. The driest stretch runs roughly February to April, which suits walking the ruins, though it is hot. Expect a humid climate all year, averaging about 26 °C and around 2,160 mm of rain, so afternoon storms are common in the wet months.

How long. 1–2

Getting there. Villahermosa airport is about two hours away by road, and the easiest last leg is a bus, with regular ADO services from Villahermosa and San Cristóbal de las Casas. The Tren Maya terminus is also in Palenque.

Budget. low

Tips

Etiquette

Nearby

Sources