Naqsh-e Rustam

Naqsh-e Rustam, Iran

The rock-cut tombs of Naqsh-e Rustam stand carved into a sheer cliff face under the early morning sun.

Come for four royal Achaemenid tombs carved high into a cliff, with Sasanian battle scenes just above the ground.

The place

Naqsh-e Rustam is an ancient necropolis in Fars province, about 13 km northwest of Persepolis. Its name, meaning something like 'the mural of Rostam', refers to the carvings that cover the face of a single mountain. Four large royal tombs of the Achaemenid dynasty, which ruled roughly from c. 550 to 330 BC, are cut high into the rock. Their facades are carved mainly with architecture, but above each doorway a panel shows a king being invested by a god. Beneath that, rows of smaller figures carry tribute, and soldiers and officials stand in line. The figures are sized to show rank, so the king stands far taller than everyone else. Lower down, near ground level, are later reliefs from the Sasanian period, with kings on horseback, figures meeting gods and scenes of combat. The site lies a few hundred metres from Naqsh-e Rajab, which has four more Sasanian carvings. Iranians regard the place as central to their history, because it holds layers of carving made over more than a thousand years. Expect an open site with the cliff dominating the view and very little shade at midday.

Its story

Naqsh-e Rustam holds more than a thousand years of carving, which is rare for a single rock face. The earliest work comes from the Elamites, who held this part of Fars before the Persians, but the site is best known for the Achaemenid kings. Four of them were buried in the cliff, and the two most often named are Darius the Great and his son Xerxes. Each royal tomb was cut so that its doorway sits at the centre of a cross-shaped facade. The carved panels above were meant to show the king's authority to anyone standing on the plain below. The rows of figures underneath show subject peoples bringing gifts, a way of picturing an empire as a gathering of many nations.

Centuries later the Sasanians carved their own scenes lower on the rock. Their most famous panel shows Shapur I on horseback. The Roman emperor Valerian kneels before him in submission, while Philip the Arab, an earlier emperor who had paid Shapur tribute, holds the king's horse. Beneath the hooves lies a figure usually taken to be Gordian III, killed in battle, though other readings have been proposed. The scene commemorates the Battle of Edessa in AD 260, when Valerian was captured, making him the only Roman emperor taken prisoner in war. For the Romans it was a lasting humiliation. For the Sasanians it was a triumph carved in stone where every passer-by could read it.

What to see

Culture

Naqsh-e Rustam is a royal burial site, and visitors treat it with the quiet respect that tombs deserve. The Achaemenid tombs sit high on the cliff, but the Sasanian reliefs are low enough that the urge to touch the carvings is strong. Iranian visitors are often curious and friendly, and families sometimes stop to ask where you are from, which is a good moment to answer warmly. Photographing the monuments is generally straightforward, but ask before photographing people, especially women and families, since many are more private than their friendliness suggests. Modest dress matters across Fars, and the tea houses near the site are social places where a polite greeting goes a long way. Do not climb on the carved panels or touch the reliefs, and always ask before you photograph anyone up close.

What to wear

Traditional dress in Fars is best understood through its textiles rather than one fixed costume. Women in the countryside have long worn patterned headcloths and loose, layered garments, and the region is known for woven wool rugs and kilims, often in plant-dyed colours. Many of these pieces are sold in Shiraz bazaars rather than worn every day. Today most people in and around Shiraz dress much as they do in other Iranian cities, in jeans, shirts, coats and trainers. Women usually wear a loose scarf, called a rusari, with a long, loose top or coat, and men wear long trousers and shirts. For a visit, pack clothes that cover shoulders, upper arms and knees, and carry a light scarf that you can use to cover your hair at religious sites and in tea houses. The ground at Naqsh-e Rustam is stony and uneven, so bring sturdy closed shoes with good grip. Spring and autumn can still bring a cold wind across the open plain, so take a warm layer for the early mornings and evenings.

What to eat

Plan it

Best time. Spring and autumn are the most comfortable seasons for an open-air site like this. Summer afternoons are hot, and the rock gives little shade, so plan midday hours for indoor stops or a tea house break.

How long. 2–3

Getting there. Fly into Shiraz International Airport, which handles domestic flights from Tehran, Isfahan and other cities, and some international routes including Dubai. Shiraz is also linked by road on the freeways from Isfahan and other cities, and by rail to Tehran and Isfahan. The last leg is by taxi or hired car from Shiraz, as Persepolis lies about 50 km northeast of the city and the necropolis is a short drive northwest of it.

Budget. low

Tips

Etiquette

Nearby

Sources