Mount Meru

Mount Meru, Tanzania

Sunrise light strikes the volcanic rim and caldera of Mount Meru above the misty savanna.

A dormant volcano above Arusha, Mount Meru offers a forested climb, a broad caldera and, on clear days, a view across to Kilimanjaro.

The place

Mount Meru is a dormant stratovolcano in the Arusha Region of northern Tanzania, standing just north of the city of Arusha. At about 4,562 metres it is the second-highest mountain in the country after Kilimanjaro, and on a clear day the two peaks can be seen together, roughly 70 kilometres apart. The mountain forms the centre of Arusha National Park. Its fertile flanks climb out of open savanna into forest, and that forest supports monkeys, leopards and close to 400 bird species.

The summit is a broad rim around a caldera about 3.5 kilometres across. Several smaller cones and craters on the lower slopes record repeated volcanic activity over a long period. Much of the original height was lost in a summit collapse some 7,800 years ago. The most recent recorded eruption was a minor one in 1910, and a plume seen on satellite images in 2015 was later traced to a wildfire rather than volcanic activity. The lavas are alkaline, and nephelinite is among the rock types found on the mountain.

The climb is the main reason most visitors come. The Momella route, which begins at the Momella gate on the eastern side, is the usual way to the top, and the summit is often called Socialist Peak. Days on the mountain move from warm forest to cold, bare ground, so the walk is as much about changing weather as about height. Arusha works well as a base, with the mountain sitting at the edge of town rather than far off in the distance.

Its story

Mount Meru's slopes have seen conflict as well as volcanic activity. In 1896 the Sack of Meru took place on the mountain, a series of fights that pitted the German Empire and Chagga states against the Meru and Warusha peoples who lived there. The episode belongs to the wider years of German expansion in the region, and it is one reason the mountain carries a history that goes well beyond its geology.

Later the foothills found a place on screen. The film Hatari! was shot at the foot of Mount Meru, and its open landscapes of grass and volcanic peaks helped give the film its look. For many years the mountain was known to outsiders mainly through that kind of image, a backdrop rather than a place with its own people and rules.

The mountain's natural record is still being read. Geologists have traced the summit collapse, the small cones and the caldera, and they continue to watch the volcano. On 20 September 2015, satellite imagery showed a plume rising on the north flank, which was first feared to be an eruption but was later found to come from a wildfire. Today the mountain is best understood as a working landscape. Its forests, farms and trails shape daily life around Arusha, and its history shapes the way people there tell the story of the land.

What to see

Culture

Mount Meru sits in a region where modest dress matters, especially away from the mountain's tourist routes. Arusha is used to foreign visitors, but in villages and on conservative streets shoulders and knees are best covered. Women in particular should avoid clothing that shows a great deal of skin. A kanga, the brightly printed wrap-around cloth sold in markets across the country, makes a practical cover-up that is easy to carry. Zanzibar, which is a conservative Muslim society, calls for the same care.

Greetings count for a great deal. Swahili speakers commonly say "shikamoo" when greeting an elder or someone senior, which literally means "I hold your feet", and the elder usually replies "marahaba". Adding a title helps, so "shikamoo bwana" is used for a man and "shikamoo mama" for a woman. In Zanzibar the equivalent is "chei chei". If you are seen working while others rest, people may call out "pole na kazi", a kind way of acknowledging the effort.

The Maasai, whose bright clothing makes them a magnet for cameras, expect to be paid for photographs. Ask before you take a picture of anyone, and agree any payment before the shutter clicks.

What to wear

Mount Meru's region has two clothing traditions that visitors will see daily. The kanga is a rectangle of cotton printed with bold patterns and Swahili sayings, worn wrapped at the waist or over the shoulders, and sold in markets across Tanzania. Women often wear kangas as everyday dress, and they are also used as headwraps, baby carriers and shawls. The Maasai, whose wardrobes are famous for bright reds and blues, traditionally wear wrapped cloth and beadwork, and they wear these pieces for ceremonies as well as everyday life.

What people wear now is a mix. In Arusha you will see office clothes, school uniforms, football shirts and dress that follows the same modest norms as the rest of the country. Kangas remain common, and many people wear them with Western tops or jackets. Traditional beadwork appears most often on Maasai people working in tourism or at markets.

For visitors, the aim is light, covered clothing that suits the heat at the base and the cold near the summit. Lightweight long trousers and loose long-sleeved shirts protect against sun and insects. A warm fleece and waterproof layer are essential for the upper slopes, where the air can be cold even on a clear day. Carry a kanga if you want an easy cover for visits to villages or religious sites, and wear sturdy walking boots with good grip for the forest and the rocky ground above the tree line.

What to eat

Plan it

Best time. June to September is the main dry season around Mount Meru, which gives clearer skies for the climb and better views of the summit. The months after the rains are usually the most reliable for walking. The wetter months bring cloud, mud on the trails and slower progress, so expect a harder climb at those times.

How long. 3–4

Getting there. Kilimanjaro International Airport is the nearest major airport, and the drive into Arusha is short. Small aircraft also use Arusha Airport. Taxis and pre-arranged transfers are the usual last leg to Arusha, and the trailhead is reached by road from town.

Budget. mid

Tips

Etiquette

Nearby

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