Montevideo

Montevideo, Uruguay

The Palacio Salvo tower bathed in golden sunset light seen from the Plaza Independencia in Montevideo.

Montevideo is a relaxed capital on the Río de la Plata, with old-town streets, lively music and a waterfront made for slow afternoons.

The place

Montevideo is the capital of Uruguay and by far its largest city, home to about 1.3 million people. It sits on the southern coast, on the north-eastern bank of the Río de la Plata, the broad estuary that gives the waterfront the feel of a seaside town rather than a continental capital. The city is compact enough to cross on foot in a morning, though its neighbourhoods change character quickly. The old town around Plaza Independencia holds government buildings, theatres and the Art Deco towers that shape the skyline. Further east, Pocitos and Punta Carretas offer long beachfront promenades, cafés and calmer residential streets. Parque Rodó has become the centre of night-time life, with bars and venues clustered around it. Montevideo is also the seat of Mercosur and ALADI, the regional trade blocs, which gives the city an unusual role in South American diplomacy. Its pace is relaxed and orderly, and it ranks at the top of Latin American cities in a Mercer quality-of-life survey. Expect plenty of coffee, grilled meat and long lunches, and weather that can turn breezy off the water.

Its story

Montevideo began as a fortified outpost on the bay, and its early history is a story of rival empires claiming the same stretch of coast. A Portuguese garrison built a fort on the hills above the bay in the early eighteenth century, but a Spanish expedition sent from Buenos Aires forced it out and began settling the site. The first residents were families from Buenos Aires, followed by settlers from the Canary Islands, and the Spanish gave the town the long name San Felipe y Santiago de Montevideo, later shortened to the name we use today. The exact founding date is debated, because no single official document records it. A diary kept by the expedition's leader points to 1726, and that is the date the city now uses. Independence from Buenos Aires as a real city took several more years to secure. For a short period in the early nineteenth century British forces held the city, before local defenders drove them out. Over the following decades the port passed between Spanish, Portuguese and Brazilian control and the wider Río de la Plata provinces, and by the nineteenth century it had become the capital of the new republic of Uruguay.

What to see

Culture

Montevideo's nightlife has shifted in recent years towards Parque Rodó, where many bars, restaurants and venues cater to younger crowds after dark. Smoking is banned in any public place with a roof, under a presidential decree, and the sale of alcohol is restricted at certain businesses during late-night and early-morning hours. The city has been part of the UNESCO Creative Cities Network for literature, which reflects a long tradition of writers and poets. Music matters as much as books. Uruguayan tango as a dance took shape in the city's neighbourhoods around the turn of the last century, and candombe and murga are the other two main styles, heard at street parades and in clubs. Montevideo is also the centre of Uruguayan cinema, from commercial releases to documentaries and experimental work. Conversation tends to be relaxed and friendly, and people often gather over mate, the bitter herbal drink shared from a single cup. Accepting a turn in a mate circle is a welcome gesture. Do not light up in any enclosed public space, since the smoking ban covers every place with a roof.

What to wear

Montevideo dresses much as other Latin American capitals do, with a relaxed everyday look and a few regional touches. Uruguay's traditional dress is most associated with the gaucho of the countryside, with a wide-brimmed hat, loose bombacha trousers gathered at the ankle, a woollen poncho and leather boots. It is seen more at rural festivals than on city streets. The materials are practical: wool, cotton and leather, chosen for wind and open country. Candombe drummers and murga performers, whose traditions are strong in the city, wear colourful costumes made for movement and parades. In everyday life, people in Montevideo wear jeans, simple dresses, knitwear and sneakers, dressing a little more formally for the theatre, a dinner out or a government office. A visitor should pack layers, because the wind off the river can make the city feel cooler than the forecast suggests. Comfortable closed shoes matter for the hills and uneven pavements of the old town. Smart casual is enough for most restaurants, though a jacket is welcome at the theatre. Light clothing suits warm days, and a waterproof jacket is worth carrying in any season.

What to eat

Plan it

Best time. March–April and October–November suit walking best: the weather is usually mild, and the city is less crowded than in midsummer. Summer brings warmer days and a lively coast, while winter is quieter and cooler. Check current forecasts, because the wind off the river can change the feel of the day quickly.

How long. 2–3

Getting there. Carrasco International Airport is the main airport, and frequent buses run from it into the city, taking about an hour and a half. Intercity coaches arrive at the Tres Cruces bus station east of the centre, and the last leg into town is a short bus or taxi ride.

Budget. mid

Tips

Etiquette

Nearby

Sources