Manila

Manila, Philippines

The Manila skyline silhouetted against a golden sunset over Manila Bay seen from Harbour Square.

Manila is a loud, warm and layered capital where colonial churches, busy markets and modern towers sit side by side.

The place

Manila is the capital of the Philippines, on the eastern shore of Manila Bay on the island of Luzon. The City of Manila itself is the second-most populous city in the country after Quezon City, with about 1.9 million residents, and it is classed as a highly urbanised city. Packed into a fairly small area, it is among the most densely populated cities in the world, so the streets feel full at almost every hour.

The city is less a single place than a set of districts that have grown into one another. Intramuros, the old walled quarter beside the Pasig River, is the historic core, while Ermita, Malate and Rizal Park draw visitors who want museums, promenades and sunsets over the water. Across the river, Binondo and its busy shopping streets fill much of the rest. Expect heavy traffic on the main roads at most times of day, and allow generous margins for any journey by road.

Manila works best as a base for short, focused days rather than a city to rush through. Morning is the calmest time for walking the old walls and churches before the heat builds. Afternoons suit museums and air-conditioned malls, and evenings bring food stalls, rooftop bars and the bay lit up along Roxas Boulevard. The city is energetic, warm and often loud, and the friendliness of its people tends to be what lingers after a visit.

Its story

Manila's story begins long before the Spanish arrived. Traces of early human life in the wider area include the Angono Petroglyphs nearby, and Negrito peoples lived across Luzon before Malayo-Polynesian settlers arrived and gradually absorbed them. By the late medieval period a fortified settlement and trading quarter stood on the shore of the Pasig River, and its people traded with the Song and Yuan courts in China. Chinese annals and Japanese reference works from that era describe the place as a kingdom in its own right.

The settlement was ruled by Rajah Sulayman until his defeat in battle opened the way for Spanish conquest. The Spanish built a walled fortress called Intramuros on the ruins of the older town, and the colonial city was founded in 1571. Its importance came from geography. Manila became the capital of the Spanish East Indies, administered for the crown through Mexico City, and its trading networks were among the first to cross the Pacific. The galleon trade carried silver from the Americas across the ocean and brought silks and porcelain back, which is why historians count Manila among the earliest global cities.

Colonial rule shaped the city's streets, churches and institutions for centuries. The Second World War brought devastating fighting, and much of the old walled city was destroyed. The reconstruction that followed left a mix of restored churches, government buildings and modern towers, so the history is visible today in the stone of Intramuros, the monuments of Rizal Park and a city that has been rebuilt more than once.

What to see

Culture

Manila is the cultural centre of the Philippines, and its museums, libraries and historic houses show that role clearly. The National Museum complex in Rizal Park groups art, anthropology, natural history and a planetarium, and it holds Juan Luna's Spoliarium. The National Library keeps the country's printed and recorded heritage, while two history museums honour the national heroes Apolinario Mabini and Jose Rizal.

Much of daily life here is public and social. Families gather in malls and markets, churches are busy on Sundays, and Catholic traditions shape the calendar. Filipinos are often warm and talkative with visitors, and English is widely spoken in the city. Public behaviour is generally relaxed, although the streets can be loud and crowded.

When visiting churches, dress modestly, lower your voice and wait for a pause before taking photographs. Ask before photographing people, especially families and vendors.

What to wear

Manila's traditional dress grew from the Spanish colonial period, when local fabrics met European tailoring. The barong Tagalog is a formal embroidered shirt, usually worn untucked, made from light textiles such as piña, a fine cloth woven from pineapple fibre, or jusi. The baro't saya, a blouse with a long skirt, was everyday and festive dress for women and is still worn at weddings and cultural events. The terno, a fitted gown with butterfly sleeves, appears at festivals and formal ceremonies.

What people wear now is far more varied. In the city, office workers dress in smart casual clothes, while young people mix local labels with global chains. The barong is worn at formal dinners, weddings and official events, but most days bring plain shirts, jeans, dresses and sneakers.

For a visitor, the climate decides most choices. Manila is hot and humid for much of the year, so light cotton or linen is the sensible base. Covered shoulders and knees are expected when entering churches. Comfortable walking shoes or sandals with grip suit uneven pavements and wet streets, and a compact umbrella helps in the rainy season.

What to eat

Plan it

Best time. January and February are the coolest months, with the lowest nights of the year. April is the hottest month, March and April are the driest, and rain builds from May and peaks in December.

How long. 2–3

Getting there. Ninoy Aquino International Airport, which is a short ride from the old city when traffic is light and considerably longer at peak hours.

Budget. mid

Tips

Etiquette

Nearby

Sources