Lake Taupō

Lake Taupō, New Zealand

Sunrise light falls on the snowy volcanic peaks across the vast expanse of Lake Taupō, viewed from the water's edge.

A vast volcanic lake in the heart of the North Island, good for swimming, trout fishing and cycling, with snowy volcanoes on the horizon.

The place

Lake Taupō fills the caldera of a large volcano in the centre of New Zealand's North Island. The town that gives the lake its name stands on a bay on the north-eastern side, and most visitors base themselves there. At about 616 square kilometres, the lake is the country's largest by area, and its deepest point, roughly 186 metres down, makes it a serious body of water rather than a pond with a view. The volcanic peaks of Tongariro, Ngauruhoe and Ruapehu rise to the south and west, and on a clear morning their snowy shoulders are mirrored across the water. The lake drains at its north-western end into the Waikato River, which carries the water a long way to the west coast. Trout fishing is a major draw, with brown and rainbow trout swimming in the bays and river mouths. Tourism is the town's main industry, with skydiving, a famous lake cycling event and an ironman race all drawing crowds. Summer, roughly December to February, is the busiest and warmest stretch, and the town fills up over the Christmas holidays, so book beds early. Rain falls in every month but is heaviest from June through December, so pack a waterproof whatever the season.

Its story

Before the modern town grew up, the land beside the lake's hot springs held a village of the Ngāti Tūwharetoa people, called Te Rapa, close to the springs of Maunga Kākaramea. On 7 May 1846 a landslide buried the settlement. Sixty people died, among them the iwi's chief, Mananui Te Heuheu Tūkino II, and the disaster remains a painful part of the region's history. The landscape around the lake was shaped by enormous volcanic eruptions long before any village stood on its shore, and the ground still shows that violence in its springs, pumice and steep ridges. Over the following century the lake became a centre for fishing and then for tourism, and the shoreline has changed as the water level has been managed. The level is set by the operators of the hydroelectric dams on the Waikato River downstream. They open gates to reduce flooding, conserve water and keep the river flowing. Those gates have been in use for decades, and their settings still shape the shoreline, the beaches and the boat ramps that visitors use today.

What to see

Culture

Taupō sits within the territory of Ngāti Tūwharetoa, and Māori culture is part of everyday life around the lake. The carvings at Mine Bay, the marae and the cultural programmes offered to visitors all carry tikanga, or customary protocol. Visitors are usually welcomed with a formal greeting when they visit a marae, and it is polite to listen before speaking and to follow the lead of hosts about photographs. Public life here is relaxed and friendly, with a strong outdoor culture: people chat in queues, dress casually and expect the shoreline to be shared. Tipping is not expected in New Zealand, so a simple thank-you is welcome. Opening hours can shift with the seasons, so check before planning a late meal. Keep to marked tracks near the Mine Bay carvings and never touch, chalk or climb the rock.

What to wear

At Lake Taupō, traditional dress survives mainly in ceremonial settings, where Māori cloaks such as kākahu, sometimes called kahu huruhuru when feather-decorated, are worn on formal occasions. These cloaks are woven from flax fibre, harakeke, and finished with dyed or natural feathers, and they signal the status and history of the wearer. Weaving is a skill passed down through families, and the finer cloaks can take months to complete. In daily life, people around the lake dress much as they do elsewhere in New Zealand: fleece, merino, waterproof jackets, outdoor trousers and sturdy footwear, because the weather changes quickly and trails are often wet. Sandals appear at the beach in summer, but boots take over on the hills. A visitor should pack layers that cope with strong sun at midday and a cool wind off the water in the evening, a light waterproof, a hat, sunglasses and walking shoes with grip for cave and forest tracks. At a marae, dress modestly, cover shoulders and knees, and take off hats and shoes where asked.

What to eat

Plan it

Best time. December to February brings warm weather and long days, but it is also the busiest season for Lake Taupō. March to May and October to November are calmer, with fewer crowds and a gentler pace. June to December brings the most rain, so pack for wet weather if you come in winter.

How long. 2–3

Getting there. Most visitors fly into Auckland and drive south-east on the main road, a journey of several hours. Taupō has a small airport with limited flights. Check the official site for current coach and flight options before you travel.

Budget. mid

Tips

Etiquette

Nearby

Sources