Laguna Colorada

Laguna Colorada, Bolivia

Sunrise light falls across the red waters and white borax islands of Laguna Colorada as flamingos wade in the shallows.

Go for a shallow lake that turns crimson under high Andean sun, with flamingos feeding in the shallows at 4,278 metres.

The place

Laguna Colorada is a shallow, very salty lake in the far southwest of Bolivia's Altiplano, the high plateau that stretches across the Andes. It sits inside the Eduardo Avaroa Andean Fauna National Reserve, at an elevation of 4,278 metres, and the surrounding land is dry, windswept and largely empty of towns. The lake gets its name from its colour. Red sediments on the bottom and a tiny green-tinged alga that thrives in very salty water give the surface a range of shades, from pale pink in calm, cool weather to deep red when the algae bloom. The colour shifts through the day and across the seasons, so two visits can look quite different. Scattered across the water are white islands of borax, a mineral that forms crusts where the lake dries at its edges. Against the red water they look almost like snow. Because the lake is so shallow and so salty, very little lives in it except specialised organisms, which is exactly why it suits flamingos. The land around it is home to vicuñas, llamas and high-altitude predators. Expect thin air, strong sun, cold nights and wind. The lake is reached by road rather than by any train, and the trip is part of the experience.

Its story

Laguna Colorada became a place of wider concern because of the birds that depend on it. The lake is a key breeding ground for several species of flamingo, including the Andean, Chilean and James's flamingos, and the abundance of plankton in its water gives these birds the food they need to feed and nest. In 1990 the lake was listed as a Ramsar Wetland of International Importance, a designation under the international treaty that protects wetlands. That listing recognised how rare and fragile the ecosystem is. Its water chemistry is extreme, and small changes in water levels, temperature or mineral content can alter both the colour and the food supply. The protected area that now surrounds it was built to keep these high-altitude habitats intact, including the bofedal wetlands that feed the lake and support grazing animals. For local communities, the lake and its wetlands are part of a working landscape where llama herding continues. Visitors have become part of that story too. Tours bring income to the region, but they also bring vehicles, litter and crowds to a place with very few services. The ongoing challenge is to let people see this extraordinary landscape without damaging the conditions that make it extraordinary in the first place.

What to see

Culture

Laguna Colorada is not a place with a long tradition of visitor-facing ceremony, but it sits within the lives of Quechua and Aymara communities who have herded llamas and farmed the high plateau for generations. The reserve is run with local involvement, and many of the drivers, guides and cooks who work here come from nearby villages and towns. Greetings tend to be warm and direct, and a polite hello in Spanish goes a long way. Many people here speak Quechua or Aymara as their first language, so a few words of Spanish are helpful. Photographing people, especially herders and their families, should always be done with permission, and a small gesture of thanks is appreciated. Conversations about the land, animals and weather are a natural way to connect with people. The reserve is also a working environment, so keep to marked routes, respect fences and gates, and never disturb livestock. Do not leave rubbish behind, since there are few bins and the wind carries litter across the plain. Take everything you bring back out with you.

What to wear

Laguna Colorada sits in a region where the traditional dress of Andean communities is still a daily reality. Many women in the Altiplano wear wide, pleated skirts, layered blouses, shawls and bowler-style hats, with textiles often woven from sheep's wool or llama and alpaca fibres. These garments are practical as well as beautiful, designed to hold warmth in cold, dry air. Colour and pattern vary between communities, and the fabrics are often handwoven or knitted at home. In everyday life, many people now combine traditional elements with jackets, jeans, trainers and synthetic fleece, especially in towns and on the road. For a visitor, the most important thing is to dress for the altitude and the weather. Days can be bright and warm, but nights and early mornings are very cold, and wind across the lake is strong. Layer your clothes, bring a warm hat and gloves, and pack sunglasses and a high-factor sun cream, since UV exposure is intense at this height. Sturdy, closed shoes with good grip suit the rough tracks and the crusty ground near the water. Modest, practical clothing is always a good choice when visiting villages or herding families.

What to eat

Plan it

Best time. Plan for the dry months from roughly May to October, when roads are easier and skies are usually clearer, though nights are very cold. The rainy season from around December to March can make tracks difficult and cloud can hide the colours. Colour intensity changes with the season and the algae, so the lake can look different on each visit.

How long. 2–3

Getting there. Fly into Uyuni Airport (UYU), then take a multi-day road transfer or jeep tour across the Altiplano to the reserve. Most visitors book through agencies in Uyuni town, and public transport to the lake itself is limited.

Budget. high

Tips

Etiquette

Nearby

Sources