Jim Corbett National Park

Jim Corbett National Park, India

A Bengal tiger walks through the golden grasses of Dhikala at sunrise in Jim Corbett National Park.

Jim Corbett offers grassland, sal forest and jeep safaris in search of tigers, elephants and deer, though the main zones close for the monsoon.

The place

Jim Corbett National Park lies in the Nainital district of Uttarakhand, spread across the Doon Valley between the Lesser Himalaya to the north and the Siwalik Hills to the south. For a park of its size the ground is remarkably varied: rounded hills, river belts, marshy hollows, open grassland and a large reservoir. Most of the land is moist deciduous forest, with sal as the main tree and peepal, rohini and mango scattered through it. The grasslands, called chaurs, are where most visitors spend their safari time, because open ground makes animals easier to spot, especially early in the morning.

The monsoon sets the rhythm of a visit. The rains arrive in summer, and the two main zones, Dhikala and Bijrani, close for the wet season, so the usual visiting window runs from late autumn into spring. Winter mornings are cold and often misty, and the grasslands sit under a pale haze that lifts after sunrise. Late spring is hot and dusty, which thins the undergrowth and draws animals to the water. The Jhirna and Sitabani buffer zones stay open all year, which makes them a useful fallback in summer.

Corbett is not a remote wilderness cut off from everything. The usual gateway is Ramnagar, and the park lies about two hours' drive north of the town. Inside, accommodation is limited to a handful of guesthouses and camps, and wildlife watching happens on set routes in jeeps rather than on foot. Expect the popular zones to fill up in peak season, and expect the forest to go quiet once the heat builds.

Its story

Jim Corbett National Park began as forest that many people had cut, farmed or hunted over for generations. Parts of the land once belonged to the princely state of Tehri Garhwal. Its ruler handed a section to the East India Company in return for help pushing the Gurkhas out of the region, and the forests were cleared partly for security reasons as much as for farming. Buksas, a people from the Terai lowlands, settled there and grew crops, but British rule brought their farming to an end in the decades that followed.

Protection came later and in stages. In the nineteenth century, Major Ramsay, the British officer in charge of the area, pushed for controls. The forest department took direct control, banned cultivation and the running of cattle stations, and turned the land into a reserve where tightly limited felling was allowed.

The idea of a true national park took shape in the early twentieth century. Officials such as E. R. Stevans and E. A. Smythies proposed one, and the colonial administration considered a game reserve. Marking out the boundaries only got under way in the 1930s. In 1936, when Sir Malcolm Hailey was Governor of the United Provinces, a reserve known as Hailey National Park was created, and it was Asia's first national park. The park was later renamed after Jim Corbett, who had been closely involved in its creation.

What to see

Culture

Jim Corbett National Park sits in a region where Kumaoni and Garhwali communities have long lived close to the forest, and village life shapes the edges of the reserve. Many people here follow Hindu practice, and the pilgrim routes into the hills, including the shrine at Yamunotri in neighbouring Uttarkashi district, draw devout visitors from across India. Much of daily life revolves around farming, small trade and the visitor economy that has grown up around Ramnagar.

Forest guides and drivers are the people who make a safari work, and it is customary to tip them at the end of a trip, in line with the service you have had. Take care with what you eat and drink: non-vegetarian food may not be brought inside the park, and alcohol is also banned there, so leave both out of your bag and your vehicle. Quiet matters as much as courtesy on a jeep ride, so stay seated and keep your voice low when animals are close.

What to wear

Traditional dress in the Kumaon hills is practical and built for cold. Women have long worn a full skirt with a wrapped shawl, and wool woven in the hills has been the main textile, sturdy and warm enough for mountain winters. Men have traditionally worn woollen caps and layered jackets. You may see some of these pieces at local fairs and in the markets around Ramnagar, though the older styles are less common in everyday life.

Most people now wear ordinary Indian and Western clothing: trousers and kurtas, jeans with cotton shirts, and sweaters and jackets through the cold months. Younger people in the towns dress much as they would in any city, while older villagers often keep to muted colours and woollen layers.

For a visit, dress for the terrain and the climate. Choose muted greens, browns and greys, because local advice is that bright clothing attracts animals. Mornings in an open jeep are cold even when afternoons are warm, so bring a fleece or windproof layer, a hat and sunscreen. Wear closed shoes with grip, because forest paths and river edges are uneven. At temples or pilgrim sites outside the park, cover your shoulders and knees.

What to eat

Plan it

Best time. Mid-November to mid-June, when Dhikala and Bijrani are open. November to February is cool and clear, with misty mornings; March to May is warmer and drier, and it gets hot by early summer. The monsoon closes the main zones from mid-June to mid-November, so plan around it.

How long. 2–3

Getting there. Ramnagar is the usual gateway, reached by road, and the park is about two hours' drive north of the town. For the last leg, arrange a vehicle from Ramnagar or through your guesthouse, and check the official site for transport options from Delhi.

Budget. mid

Tips

Etiquette

Nearby

Sources