Jerusalem

Jerusalem, Israel

The golden Dome of the Rock seen from the Mount of Olives at sunset.

Few cities hold as much history per street as Jerusalem, and the mix of ancient stone, busy markets and modern government buildings makes it worth a long stay.

The place

Jerusalem sits on a plateau in the Judaean Mountains, roughly between the Mediterranean coast and the Dead Sea, at about 754 metres above sea level. Its population is a little over one million, which makes it Israel's largest city, though the city's identity is shaped less by its size than by its religious weight. Judaism, Christianity and Islam all regard it as holy, and that fact runs through almost every neighbourhood. The Old City, inside its historic walls, is the densest concentration of sacred sites, with the Western Wall, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and the Haram al-Sharif (Temple Mount) all within a short walk of each other. Outside the walls, the city is much more modern: stone apartment blocks, parks, cafés and government offices spread across the hills. The political status of the city is contested. Israel keeps its main government institutions here, while Palestinians look to East Jerusalem as the capital of a future Palestinian state. Neither claim is widely recognised internationally, so visitors will notice that the city is divided in practice between western and eastern parts. Expect security checks at many sites, and treat both sides with the same courtesy.

Its story

Jerusalem is among the longest continuously inhabited cities anywhere, and its recorded history reaches back more than five thousand years. The first settlement appeared around 3000 BCE beside the Gihon Spring, which gave the early inhabitants a reliable water supply. Egyptian execration texts from about 2000 BCE mention the place as Rusalimum, one of the earliest written references to it. By the 17th century BCE the settlement had become a fortified town under Canaanite rule, with substantial walls built to protect its water system. In the Late Bronze Age it fell under Egyptian overlordship, a relationship recorded in the Amarna letters, which are diplomatic correspondence from the period. The city's fortunes changed again around 1000 BCE, when King David took it and made it the capital of his kingdom. His son Solomon built the First Temple, and the city became the centre of a religious life that has never fully left it. After the kingdom divided, Jerusalem served as the capital of Judah until the Neo-Babylonian Empire captured it in 586 BCE. The Babylonians destroyed the Temple and carried much of the population into exile. Later rulers, including Romans, Byzantines, Arab caliphs, Crusaders, Ayyubids, Mamluks and Ottomans, each left their mark on the walls and the streets. The modern division began after the 1948 war, when the city was split between Israeli and Jordanian control until 1967.

What to see

Culture

Jerusalem is known for its religious importance, but it is also home to a wide range of museums, galleries and art programmes. The Israel Museum draws close to one million visitors a year, roughly a third of them tourists, and its youth wing alone welcomes about 100,000 children annually. The city's cultural life follows the rhythm of its faiths. Shabbat, the Jewish day of rest, runs from Friday evening to Saturday evening, and many shops, buses and some attractions stop during those hours. Muslim prayer times shape the pace of the Old City, and Christian festivals bring large processions to the streets around the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Hebrew and Arabic are both widely spoken, and English is common in tourist areas. Visitors are generally welcome in religious spaces, but dress is expected to be modest, with shoulders and knees covered at most holy sites, and photographing people at prayer without asking is considered rude.

What to wear

Jerusalem has no single traditional costume, because its communities have developed distinct dress over centuries. Palestinian women are known for the tatreez, cross-stitched embroidery in red, green and black on cotton or linen, which decorates dresses and headpieces; a thobe with heavy embroidery is worn mainly for weddings and festivals now. Ethiopian Christian women in the city often wear a white cotton shawl, called a netela, with a coloured border, especially at church. Among Orthodox Jewish men, the black suit and wide-brimmed hat are everyday wear, while many Orthodox women dress modestly with long sleeves and skirts. In the city today, most people dress much as they would in any European or American city, with jeans, trainers and light jackets, though the Old City and religious neighbourhoods tend to be more formal. For a visitor, the key points are modesty and practicality. Cover shoulders and knees for churches, mosques and synagogues, carry a scarf for women who want to enter a mosque, and bring comfortable closed shoes, since the Old City streets are stone, steep and polished by feet. In winter, pack a warm layer, because the city can be cold and wet, and in summer, choose loose cotton clothing and a hat.

What to eat

Plan it

Best time. December to February is the coolest stretch, with highs of about 26 to 30 °C and nights near freezing, though it is also the wettest, while June to September is the hottest and driest, with highs above 40 °C. Summer is dry and hot, and winter is cooler and wetter, so pack accordingly in either season.

How long. 3–4

Getting there. Fly into Ben Gurion International Airport (TLV), which lies beside the highway to Jerusalem. The journey to the city centre takes about 40 to 50 minutes, or longer in heavy traffic. A rail line from the airport opened in 2018. Bus services from the airport have changed recently, so check the current timetable before you travel.

Budget. mid

Tips

Etiquette

Nearby

Sources