Itsukushima Shrine

Itsukushima Shrine, Japan

The vermilion torii gate of Itsukushima Shrine at sunset, viewed from the wet shoreline at low tide.

Go for the vermilion torii that seems to stand in the sea, on a wooded island a short ferry ride from Hiroshima Prefecture's mainland.

The place

Itsukushima Shrine sits on the island of Itsukushima, usually called Miyajima, in the city of Hatsukaichi in Hiroshima Prefecture. You reach the island by ferry from Miyajimaguchi Station on the mainland, and the short crossing is part of the experience. The shrine is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and several of its buildings and possessions are designated National Treasures by the Japanese government.

The draw is the torii, the great gate standing out in the bay. At high tide it appears to float on the water, and at low tide it can stand on exposed mud, so the view changes through the day. Behind it, a set of covered walkways and halls is built out over the water on stilts, so the complex seems to sit on the sea rather than on the shore.

The complex has two main buildings, the Honsha and the Sessha Marodo-jinja, along with many smaller halls and structures. The island is hilly and wooded, with Mount Misen rising above the shrine and forest paths running behind the town. Expect crowds. The approach street and the shrine fill with day-trippers from late morning, and the ferry queues build steadily. Arrive early or stay overnight to see the shrine with fewer people around.

Its story

Itsukushima Shrine was the chief Shinto shrine of Aki Province, the old name for this part of Hiroshima. It was counted among the three great shrines of the province, alongside Take Shrine and Hayatani Shrine. Tradition credits the first torii on the site to the sixth century, but the record of a gate standing there dates from 1168, and the present shrine buildings date largely from 1875.

The shrine's wealth and reputation owe much to Taira no Kiyomori, the powerful noble who governed Aki Province in 1168. He ordered the main hall built as a tribute to the kami of seafarers and as a base for the Taira family's trade across the Inland Sea. Miyajima became a Taira family shrine, and the family's involvement with maritime trade with the Song dynasty gave the island its importance. Kiyomori also seems to have chosen the site partly to set himself apart from conventional pilgrimage customs of the court.

Later, the warlord Mōri Motonari rebuilt the main hall in 1571. He had earlier fought an engagement on the island in 1555, and because shedding blood on sacred ground broke strict Shinto purity taboos, that battle was remembered as a spiritual problem for the shrine. The Kyakuden, the guest-god's shrine, is the only surviving Kamakura-period structure on the site.

What to see

Culture

Itsukushima Shrine is a working Shinto shrine, and its rituals are part of the island's life rather than a performance laid on for visitors. The best known is the Kangen-sai, a ritual performed on the water in front of the shrine, and the shrine holds other ceremonies through the year. If you see a ceremony in progress, stand back and keep your voice low.

The shrine's taboos also shape daily custom. Shinto places treat purity seriously, which is why the shrine's history includes the 1555 battle on the island and the purification that followed. Visitors are expected to respect the grounds. Shoes come off at the buildings where the floors are raised, and you should follow the marked route rather than wandering into off-limits areas.

Photographing the shrine is generally welcome from outside and along the walkways, but priests and worshippers should not be photographed without asking. Keep the crowds moving at the torii, don't climb on the gate or its base, and don't drop litter near the deer that roam the island. Remove your shoes where the floors are raised, and keep your voice down inside the halls.

What to wear

Traditional dress at Itsukushima Shrine follows the usual Shinto pattern. Priests wear layered robes called kariginu or hakama, usually in plain silk, with shades and cuts that mark rank and role. Shrine maidens, the miko, wear white kosode tops with red hakama skirts, typically in lightweight silk or cotton weaves. These garments show up at ceremonies rather than in everyday visits.

In daily life, most people on the island wear ordinary clothes: jeans, trainers, light cotton and waterproof jackets. Local shopkeepers and staff dress for the weather and the crowds, and the older residents often wear simple muted colours. Few visitors wear anything traditional, though some rent kimono in Hiroshima and wear them around town.

For a visit, dress for the weather and the walking. Summer is hot and humid, so choose breathable cotton or linen and a sun hat. Autumn and spring call for a light layer. Wear shoes that slip off easily, since you will remove them at the raised floors, and that are comfortable on steps and forest paths. Avoid revealing clothing inside the shrine precinct, and keep shoulders covered for the most respectful look.

What to eat

Plan it

Best time. Spring, from late March to April, is the busiest and most scenic season, with blossom around the island. Late October to November gives autumn colour and cooler air. June is the rainy season, and summer is hot and humid, so the forest walks and shrine walkways are harder work then.

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Getting there. Fly or travel to Hiroshima, then take the train to Miyajimaguchi Station on the mainland. From there, the ferry crosses to the island, and the crossing takes only a few minutes. Check the ferry timetables and the station information before you travel, as schedules vary.

Budget. mid

Tips

Etiquette

Nearby

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