Hunza Valley

Hunza Valley, Pakistan

The snow-capped peaks of Rakaposhi at sunrise seen from Eagle's Nest, Hunza Valley.

Hunza is a high valley of old forts, glacier-fed rivers and some of the Karakoram's tallest peaks, reached by one long road.

The place

Hunza Valley lies in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of northern Pakistan. The Hunza River, which is fed by meltwater from glaciers high in the Karakoram, runs through the valley floor at about 2,438 metres, so the air is thin and nights stay near or below freezing even in summer. Geographers usually divide the valley into three parts. Upper Hunza, also called Gojal, stretches toward the border passes. Central Hunza, around Karimabad and Aliabad, is where most visitors stay. Lower Hunza, known as Shinaki, sits nearer the point where the valley opens out towards Gilgit. Side valleys feed in from Hopar, Hispar and Nalter, and the surrounding land is steep slopes, rough peaks, glaciers and fault lines. The Main Karakoram Thrust runs through the area, which is why hot springs appear in several places. Villages cling to terraces above the river, with fields and orchards linked by stone water channels. Peaks above 6,000 metres ring the valley, and Rakaposhi, at 7,788 metres, is the one that dominates most views.

Its story

Hunza Valley's history reaches back well before the modern road. Buddhism, with Bön practised alongside it, was the main faith here before Islam arrived, and several Buddhist sites survive from that period. Most people later became Muslims, mostly of the Ismaili branch. The Sacred Rock of Hunza is the best-known relic. Its carvings include horsemen and ibex, and its Brahmi inscriptions were left by Buddhist monks as acts of worship. For a long time those inscriptions were neglected, and they are now being restored. The valley also sat on the trade routes between Central Asia and the Indian subcontinent. Merchants, pilgrims and monks passed through, and the valley offered them shelter, which helped carry Buddhism across Asia. The historian Ahmad Hassan Dani has argued that Saka groups used the Karakoram route on their way toward Taxila. Kharoshthi lines on the rock name Saka and Pahlava rulers, and Kushan-period inscriptions show which powers held sway over Hunza and Gilgit. The valley began to break away from Gilgit as its own polity around 997 CE. A decisive split came in the 15th century, when the Ayash family took power. The valley was then shared between Hunza, which held the upper watershed, and Nagar. Fighting between the two was almost constant. Many people still say the valley inspired the Shangri-La of James Hilton's 1933 novel Lost Horizon, though that link remains a popular belief.

What to see

Culture

Hunza Valley is mostly Muslim, with the Ismaili branch of Islam the largest, and daily life runs on its rhythms. Villages are small and close-knit, so visitors are noticed. Women are often seen working in fields and shops, but many dress modestly and may avoid being photographed. Ask before taking a portrait of anyone, especially women and children, and never photograph people at prayer. Honour the Buddhist heritage too: the petroglyphs and inscriptions at the Sacred Rock are fragile, so do not touch them, climb on them or add marks. Guesthouses and small restaurants are usually family-run, so greet people warmly, accept tea if it is offered, and pay what you agreed. Shoes come off when you enter a home. Please keep this in mind when you step into a family courtyard or a fort: take your shoes off at any threshold where others have done the same, and ask before you photograph anyone.

What to wear

Traditional dress in Hunza is practical rather than decorative. Men and women have long traditionally worn loose, layered tunics and trousers, with woollen shawls and warm caps suited to the cold mountain air. Handwoven wool and cotton cloth have been the common materials, and the cloth is chosen for warmth and durability. Locals still dress this way at home, at weddings and at festivals, while younger people in towns like Karimabad often wear jeans, jackets and trainers, and buy clothes in the bazaars. What a visitor should wear comes down to three things. The climate changes sharply between the valley floor and the high passes, so bring layers, a warm jacket and a hat. For mosques, shrines and villages, cover shoulders and knees, and bring a scarf for women to use over the head. Good footwear matters more than fashion: the paths to the forts, the terraces and the lakeshores are uneven, often dusty and sometimes steep, so choose boots or sturdy trainers with grip.

What to eat

Plan it

Best time. May to December, when the Khunjerab Pass is open for crossings into China. Late spring and early autumn are the easiest months for walking and driving. Winter brings a closed pass and flights from Gilgit that are often delayed for several days, so only come then if you have spare time.

How long. 2–3

Getting there. Most people reach Hunza by road on the Karakoram Highway. Gilgit is roughly 100 km away, a drive of about 2 to 3 hours, though travelling there from Islamabad can stretch to a full 24 hours. Gilgit Airport has small 42-seat planes to Islamabad, a flight of about 45 minutes, but they depend on the weather. The last leg from Gilgit is a shared jeep or bus to Aliabad, where the main bus stand is on the highway.

Budget. mid

Tips

Etiquette

Nearby

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