Horton Plains National Park

Horton Plains National Park, Sri Lanka

Sunrise light breaking over the steep cliff edge of World's End in Horton Plains National Park, with mist filling the valley below.

A cloud-forest plateau in Sri Lanka's central highlands, known for its wildlife, its mist and a cliff-edge view at World's End.

The place

Horton Plains National Park sits on a high plateau in the central highlands of Sri Lanka, at an elevation of 2,100–2,300 m. The park covers about 31 square kilometres and borders the Thotupalakanda Nature Reserve, so walkers can move between protected hill country without leaving the highlands. Two kinds of landscape dominate: open montane grassland and cloud forest in the folds of the land, where mist gathers through much of the day. Many of the plants and animals here are endemic to Sri Lanka, and some are found nowhere else but this plateau.

The plateau feeds the headwaters of three major rivers, the Mahaweli, Kelani and Walawe, which makes it an important water source for the island. Its older name, Maha Eliya Plains, refers to the open, sunlit grassland that opens up beyond the forest edge. Shrubs and trees of the montane forest form patches within the grass, and the park is recognised as an Important Bird Area. Sambar deer graze across the open ground, often in the early morning, and several bird species are confined to this small area.

The walk is the main way to see the park. A marked circuit trail of about nine kilometres loops through grass, forest and open viewpoints, and the going can be slippery after rain. Weather changes quickly here. A clear start can turn grey and damp by midday, and cold air sweeps in at the cliff edges. Most visitors treat the park as a half-day or full-day outing, with layers for the cold.

Its story

Horton Plains National Park was known to its earliest visitors as Maha Eliya Thenna, meaning roughly the great open plain. The name changed during the British period. Lieutenants William Fisher of the 78th Regiment and Albert Watson of the 58th Regiment reached the plateau in 1834 and are credited with its European discovery. The area was then renamed after Sir Robert Wilmot-Horton, governor of Ceylon from 1831 to 1837, who had travelled there in 1836 to meet the Ratemahatmaya of Sabaragamuwa.

The plateau's human history runs much deeper than the colonial record. Stone tools from the Balangoda culture of the Stone Age have turned up on the plains. People from the lowlands climbed these hills in later centuries to mine gems, smelt iron ore, dig an irrigation canal and cut timber. A pollen core taken from a bog here suggests that in the late Quaternary the area had a drier climate and a plant community limited to a few species.

Protection came from a concern about the forest itself. The botanist Joseph Dalton Hooker urged the British government to leave montane forests above a certain height undisturbed, and an administrative order later in the nineteenth century stopped clearing and felling in the region. The plateau became a wildlife sanctuary in 1969 and was made a national park in 1988. Its cloud forest is the largest surviving stretch of its kind in Sri Lanka. The wider Central Highlands, including this park, were inscribed on the World Heritage List in 2010.

What to see

Culture

Horton Plains is a protected national park, and its rules are there to keep the plateau's plants and animals safe. Stay on marked paths, since the grassland and bog edges are fragile and trampling them causes lasting damage. Local communities have long relied on these hills for timber and water, so a quiet, respectful manner with the guides, rangers and tea-estate workers you meet along the road goes a long way. Visitors are encouraged to carry out all rubbish and to keep wildlife at a distance, because sambar deer and birds that are fed by people quickly lose their natural caution. Please take your litter back down the trail and never leave it at the viewpoints.

What to wear

Horton Plains lies in the cool central highlands, so the traditional dress you see in the wider area reflects Sri Lankan lowland customs rather than the plateau itself. Many men wear the sarong, a wrapped cotton cloth known locally as a sarama, while women often wear the saree, traditionally woven from cotton or silk. The Kandyan style of dress, with a distinctive draped blouse and pleated cloth, is still worn at festivals and in the hill towns. Most people on the road today wear practical clothes such as jeans, shirts, and cotton or synthetic trousers. On the plateau itself, visitors should wear warm layers, since temperatures can drop sharply in the mist. A waterproof jacket, a fleece and quick-drying trousers are sensible, along with sturdy walking shoes with a good grip for muddy and wet trails. Bring a hat and sunscreen for the clear spells, and avoid very short shorts or sleeveless tops when you visit nearby towns, temples or local homes.

What to eat

Plan it

Best time. February and July are generally the driest months, so the views and trails are at their most reliable then. The plateau gets rain and mist in most months, and the rainy spells can make the paths slippery and hide the scenery. Go early in the day in any season, because the cloud usually builds from late morning.

How long. 1–2

Getting there. Bandaranaike International Airport near Colombo is the usual arrival point. From there, travel to the hill towns of Nuwara Eliya or Ohiya by road or rail, and continue by taxi or private hire to the park entrance. The last stretch is steep and winding, so allow plenty of time.

Budget. mid

Tips

Etiquette

Nearby

Sources