Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park

Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park, United States

A vast field of black hardened lava at sunrise in Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park.

Go for the chance to stand near an active volcano, walk across cooled lava fields and see how new land is made.

The place

Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park occupies a stretch of the island of Hawaiʻi and takes in two active volcanoes. Kīlauea is counted among the most active volcanoes in the world, and its summit crater, Halemaʻumaʻu, can be seen glowing or sending up a plume of gas and steam, depending on the day. Mauna Loa, the other peak, is the world's largest shield volcano, a broad dome built up by repeated flows of fluid lava rather than by violent blasts.

For geologists the park is a working laboratory. Its lava fields, cones and newly formed ground show how the Hawaiian Islands have grown over time, and researchers come here to study volcanic activity at close range. For everyone else it offers a run of striking landscapes: black plains of hardened lava, steaming cracks, patches of rainforest and a lit lava tube you can walk through. Rare plants and birds are part of the picture too, though the lava fields look bare at first glance.

The park also carries a cultural layer. Kanaka Maoli, the indigenous people, regard volcanic eruptions as sacred, so the landscape is understood through that lens rather than as scenery alone. Expect to hear the goddess Pele mentioned in exhibits, talks and conversation, often with real reverence.

Its story

Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park has a history that begins with the volcano itself, which Hawaiians long regarded as the sacred home of the goddess Pele. Kīlauea's name is often rendered as much spreading, a nod to how often it erupts, while Mauna Loa means long mountain, referring to its great height. People climbed to the crater rim to leave offerings for the goddess, and that practice shaped how the land was approached long before outsiders arrived.

The park's human record includes hard moments. In 1790, a party of warriors, together with women and children who happened to be in the area, was caught in an unusually violent eruption. Many people died, and the marks of feet pressed into the cooling lava still survive.

Western visitors reached the crater in 1823, when the English missionary William Ellis and the American Asa Thurston made the journey. Ellis wrote of a sight that was both sublime and frightening, and his account of standing transfixed at the edge helped put the volcano on the map. By the 1840s the crater was drawing tourists, and local businessmen including Benjamin Pitman and George Lycurgus ran a string of hotels along the rim. Volcano House is one of the few hotels or restaurants that sit within the park's borders today.

The land was established as a national park in 1916. It was later recognised as an International Biosphere Reserve in 1980 and as a World Heritage Site in 1987, reflecting both its natural importance and its value to scientists studying volcanism.

What to see

Culture

Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park sits on ground that the Kanaka Maoli regard as sacred, and that matters more here than at many parks. Kīlauea and its Halemaʻumaʻu crater were traditionally the home of Pele, the goddess of volcanoes, and people came to the rim to leave offerings. You will hear her name from rangers, guides and in shops, and it is worth listening closely. Many visitors also know the belief that volcanic rock taken from the islands brings misfortune, which is attributed to Pele's wrath. Whatever you make of that, removing rock, sand or plants from a national park is illegal, and many local people see taking natural items from the islands as disrespectful for religious, moral and environmental reasons alike. Stay on marked trails, where thin lava crust and hidden cracks can be dangerous, and keep well back from steam vents. Please leave every stone exactly where you found it, even the small and pretty ones.

What to wear

Traditional dress in Hawaiʻi came from the materials of the land and sea. Kapa, a bark cloth made by beating the inner bark of the wauke plant, was used for wraps and garments and was often decorated with stamped or painted patterns. Lauhala, woven from pandanus leaves, made mats, hats and bags. Feather work was reserved for especially important people: cloaks, capes and helmets were built from thousands of tiny feathers, and they signalled rank. Few of these are worn day to day now, but they remain central to cultural revival and are shown in museums and galleries.

Today people on the island dress much as they would anywhere warm: shorts, T-shirts and sun hats are common, and the aloha shirt, a loose printed shirt, is worn for work, celebration and everyday wear alike. The muʻumuʻu, a long loose dress, is also popular.

For your visit, pack for changeable conditions. The lava terrain is rough and sharp, so sturdy closed shoes and long trousers protect your legs and feet on the trails. Carry a light fleece or jacket for the cool, damp air near the summit, where mornings and evenings can feel chilly even when the coast is hot. A hat and sunscreen help on the open rim roads, and a light scarf is useful against the fumes when the wind turns.

What to eat

Plan it

Best time. The drier stretch from May to August, with the least rain, is the most comfortable time to visit, while March and April are the wettest months. Rain falls at most times of year, especially in the rainforest areas, so pack for damp weather whatever the month. Mornings are often clearer than afternoons, when cloud can roll over the summit.

How long. 2–3

Getting there. Fly into Hilo International or Kona International on the Big Island, then drive. From Hilo the park is about 30 miles southwest, roughly a 45-minute drive, while Kona is a longer run of a couple of hours. Hire a car, as public transport to the park is limited.

Budget. mid

Tips

Etiquette

Nearby

Sources