Great Smoky Mountains National Park

Great Smoky Mountains National Park, United States

The blue-grey ridges of the Great Smoky Mountains during a golden sunset, viewed from behind mossy river stones.

Ridge after ridge of forested mountain straddling the Tennessee–North Carolina line, with waterfalls, old farmsteads and the Appalachian Trail running through the middle.

The place

Great Smoky Mountains National Park sits on the ridgeline that divides Tennessee from North Carolina, in the southern Appalachians. The state border runs through the middle of the park, so a single walk can carry you from one state into the other without any gate to mark the crossing. The peaks here are among the tallest in eastern North America, and Kuwohi, Mount Guyot and Mount Le Conte are the names you will hear most often. Lower down, the slopes are wrapped in a cool, wet forest, part of the Appalachian temperate rainforest, and that moisture feeds the streams and waterfalls that draw many visitors. The park is known for its mountains, waterfalls, wildlife and plant life, and for a long network of hiking trails. The main entrances are on Newfound Gap Road, at Gatlinburg in Tennessee and Cherokee in North Carolina, with a third approach from Townsend. Expect the roads to be busy in the warm months, especially at weekends, and expect phone signal to be patchy once you are among the trees. The Appalachian Trail runs through the park from Georgia towards Maine, so long-distance walkers often pass this way. Private cars are the usual way in, and a scenic drive makes a sensible first day for anyone who wants big views without a long climb.

Its story

Native people had hunted in these mountains for thousands of years before any European expedition arrived. Archaeologists have found stone projectile points along what look like old animal migration paths, and Woodland-period sites within the park have yielded pottery and signs of early farming. Later, during the Mississippian period, many farming communities moved away from the forest and settled in the river valleys at the edges of the range, where the soil was richer. Their villages on the Little Tennessee River, Citico and Toqua, were later named after Cherokee towns that flourished on the same sites. Most of these settlements belonged to a loose chiefdom centred on a larger town called Chiaha, which now lies beneath Douglas Lake. Spanish expeditions passed through the French Broad valley north of the mountains in the sixteenth century, and both spent considerable time at Chiaha. The mountains themselves were heavily logged in the decades before the park was created. The Little River Lumber Company founded the village of Elkmont in 1908 as a logging camp, and it later became a resort with a hotel. The park was established in 1934. Cottage owners at Elkmont were allowed to lease their properties back, but the leases ended in 1992 and the buildings were left to decline. The hotel collapsed in 2005, while other structures still stand and are listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

What to see

Culture

Great Smoky Mountains National Park is a protected landscape, but it also holds the memory of people who lived here long before it had a name. Cherokee communities have deep ties to these mountains, and many of their names still mark the map. Settler families and Appalachian mountain communities shaped the valleys too, through farming, music, crafts and storytelling that continue in the region today. Historic sites such as Cades Cove and Elkmont tell these stories through their buildings, so reading the panels at the visitor centres helps you understand what you are walking past. Traffic on the scenic roads often slows for views and for animals, so be patient and pull over safely. The park is firm about wildlife: keep well back from bears, never feed them, and do not leave food where they can reach it.

What to wear

Traditional Cherokee dress relied on what the land provided, including deerskin and woven plant fibres, and some decorative techniques such as beadwork and ribbonwork are still practised by Cherokee artists today. Mountain families in the Appalachian valleys wore homespun cloth, spun and woven at home, usually from wool and cotton. Quilts pieced from scraps were both practical bedding and a respected form of textile art, and quilting traditions remain strong across the region. Today the everyday look in Gatlinburg and on the trails is practical outdoor clothing: synthetic or merino layers, waterproof shells, walking boots or sturdy trail shoes, and a hat. For a visit, dress for changeable weather. The forest can feel cool and damp even on a warm day, so pack a fleece and a rain jacket. Avoid heavy cotton on long walks, since it holds sweat and dries slowly. Dress is informal across the park, but modest, respectful clothing suits the historic settlements and the Cherokee communities nearby.

What to eat

Plan it

Best time. April and May bring wildflowers and fresh leaves, and October brings autumn colour and cooler air. Summer is warm and busy with crowds, and winter can bring cold snaps and icy roads at higher elevations.

How long. 2–3

Getting there. Fly into Knoxville, to the west, or Asheville, to the east, and drive the last leg. The nearest train station is at Clemson, South Carolina, which is a long drive from the Bryson City entrance, so a car is the practical choice for most visitors.

Budget. mid

Tips

Etiquette

Nearby

Sources