Grand Palace

Grand Palace, Thailand

The golden spires of Wat Phra Kaew glowing in late afternoon sun inside the Grand Palace complex in Bangkok.

Bangkok's old royal heart, where Thailand's kings have lived since 1782, and where gilded halls and the Emerald Buddha still draw crowds.

The place

The Grand Palace is a walled complex of buildings in the centre of Bangkok, on the east bank of the Chao Phraya River. It has served as the official residence of the Kings of Siam, and later of Thailand, since 1782, when the court moved across the river into the new capital. Until 1925 the king, the royal household and the government all worked from within its walls. Later monarchs chose other residences, most notably Dusit Palace, but the Grand Palace remains in use for official events, and several royal ceremonies and state functions are still held inside its grounds each year.

The palace is one of the most popular attractions in Thailand, with over eight million visitors a year, so the crowds are real even on a weekday. The compound is organised around several courtyards, and the busiest is the one holding the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, a royal temple set within the walls. Expect the grounds to be full from late morning, especially on weekends and public holidays, and expect a lot of walking in heat that rarely eases before the sun goes down.

Taxis and tuk-tuks drop visitors on the road outside, where tickets are bought and dress is checked before entry. Time spent in the covered galleries and under the shade of the courtyard trees is the most comfortable way to see the site. The complex feels more like an open-air museum than a living house, and that is much of its appeal.

Its story

The Grand Palace was begun on 6 May 1782 on the orders of King Phutthayotfa Chulalok, known as Rama I, the founder of the Chakri dynasty that still reigns. He had taken the crown from King Taksin of Thonburi and wanted a capital of his own. He moved the seat of power from Thonburi, on the west bank of the river, to the eastern side at Bangkok. To give the new city a defensible and practical shape, canals were cut along the east side, turning the site into an artificial island called Rattanakosin.

The palace stood on the western edge of that island, between Wat Pho to the south and Wat Mahathat to the north, with the river on its west side. The land had previously been home to a Chinese community, whom the king moved to an area outside the city walls. That settlement is now Bangkok's Chinatown.

Materials and money were short, so the first palace was built almost entirely of timber, enclosed by a simple palisade of logs. On 10 June 1782 the king crossed the river from Thonburi and took up permanent residence. Later reigns replaced and extended the early structures, with particular growth under King Chulalongkorn, Rama V. By 1925 the royal family and government had settled elsewhere, and the compound took on the ceremonial role it holds today. The story of the site is one of a young dynasty choosing a new capital in a hurry, then slowly building permanence on top of improvisation.

What to see

Culture

The Grand Palace is a working royal compound as well as a monument, and staff and Thai visitors treat it that way. The monarchy is held in high regard, so conversation about the royal family should be courteous, and mocking remarks about them can bring legal trouble. Portraits of the king and royal family appear around the grounds and deserve the same care as any image of authority. Inside the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, worshippers keep their voices low, do not climb on platforms or touch the walls, and sit with their feet tucked away from the images. Monks and people at prayer deserve space, so stepping aside is better than crowding them for a photograph. Photography is usually permitted in the grounds, but asking before photographing anyone at prayer or in a ceremony is the courteous approach. Strict dress rules are enforced at the gates. Remove your footwear before entering any shrine hall, and never point your feet at a Buddha image.

What to wear

Traditional Thai dress for women is the chut Thai, a fitted blouse worn with a long wrapped skirt called a phasin, often in silk or cotton woven with patterns such as the ikat-style mudmee. A sabai, a long shoulder cloth, completes the outfit at formal events. The men's equivalent is a long-sleeved shirt with a sarong-style lower garment and, on court occasions, a jacket. Royal and court dress uses rich brocade and gold-thread weaving, and these outfits appear at ceremonies, state functions and weddings rather than in daily life. Within the palace precincts, the formal dress is seen mainly on staff at official events, while most people in Bangkok wear ordinary Western-style clothes, with office and school uniforms common during the week. Visitors should choose light, loose cotton or linen, long trousers or a skirt below the knee, and sleeves that cover the shoulders. Closed shoes or sandals that slip on and off easily suit both the walking on stone and the frequent footwear removal at shrine halls. Shorts, sleeveless tops and very short skirts are the items most likely to be turned away at the gate, and the current dress rules are on the official site.

What to eat

Plan it

Best time. November to February, when Bangkok is cooler and drier and the heat is most manageable for a long day outdoors. March to May is hot, with April the hottest month, and May to October is the rainy season, peaking in September.

How long. 1–2

Getting there. Suvarnabhumi Airport (BKK) is the main international airport, and the city ride from either airport can take an hour or more in traffic. Take the Airport Rail Link into the city, then a taxi or tuk-tuk to the palace. The last leg is short, and the river is a pleasant alternative when the roads are busy.

Budget. mid

Tips

Etiquette

Nearby

Sources