Ferrara

Ferrara, Italy

The brick Castello Estense rises over its moat at sunset, seen from a low stone edge with reeds and a bicycle in front.

Ferrara is a calm Renaissance city of brick palaces, a moated castle and cycling paths along its old walls, far quieter than its famous neighbours.

The place

Ferrara lies on the flat Po plain in Emilia-Romagna, northern Italy, about 44 km north-east of Bologna and 87 km south of Venice. Around 129,000 people live in the comune, and the ground beneath them is only 9 metres above sea level, so the whole city is level and bicycles are a main way of getting about. The river Po runs a few kilometres to the north, while a smaller channel, the Po di Volano, passes close to the centre. The historic core is a Renaissance city planned for a court: streets are broad by Italian standards, palaces sit behind brick and marble fronts, and a moated castle stands at the heart of it all. Much of the circuit of walls survives and now serves as a long, shaded path for walking and cycling. UNESCO has listed the city, yet the centre feels lived in rather than preserved, with students, shoppers and office workers filling the squares. Ferrara is far calmer than Venice or Florence, and many visitors come only for an afternoon from Bologna. That is a pity, because an overnight stay brings quiet evenings and nearly empty streets in the morning. Summers are hot and humid, winters cold and often foggy, and spring and autumn are the kindest seasons for walking.

Its story

Ferrara's story begins in the wetlands near the old mouth of the Po, where the Etruscans founded the port town of Spina around the sixth century BC. Spina slipped out of memory until drainage works in the Comacchio marshes, early in the twentieth century, exposed a cemetery with thousands of graves. Ferrara itself has murkier beginnings. Scholars debate whether it had Roman roots, and one theory points to two small Byzantine settlements facing each other across the river: a cluster around a church of St George on one bank, and a fortified camp on the other to guard against the Lombards. The first written mention comes in the eighth century, when the Lombard king Desiderius seized the town from the Byzantine authorities at Ravenna. The city's great age came later under the House of Este, who ruled as a ducal court. Under Duke Ercole I the city drew artists, scholars and wealthy families, and the new streets and palaces date from that confident period. When the Este line moved its seat to Modena at the end of the sixteenth century, Ferrara passed to the Papal States and slowly lost its glitter. Water remained a worry throughout, and the Po caused serious floods as recently as 1951.

What to see

Culture

Ferrara's character comes from its court past and from the communities that made it work. The Jewish community has lived here without interruption since medieval times, which sets the city apart in the region. Its members flourished under the Este, were confined to a walled ghetto after papal rule began, and were released only with Italian unification in the nineteenth century. Their synagogue, museum and quiet streets are still part of everyday Ferrara, and well worth an unhurried visit. The Este left a taste for pageantry that survives in the Palio, a historic contest between the city's districts held in spring, with parades in period costume. Daily life is gentler. The evening stroll, or passeggiata, fills the main streets as families, students and older couples walk, chat and stop for an aperitivo. Cycling is part of local identity, with riders of every age crossing the cobbles in office clothes, so visitors on foot should stay alert for bells. Meals are unhurried and lunch often closes shops for a couple of hours in the middle of the day, which is worth planning around. People tend to be reserved at first but helpful, and a few words of Italian go a long way. Cover your shoulders and knees when entering the cathedral or any church, and ask permission before taking photographs inside the synagogue or of people at prayer.

What to wear

Ferrara has no everyday folk costume, but its textile history belongs to the Renaissance court. Silk, velvet and brocade defined the Este wardrobe, with fitted doublets for men and long, richly embroidered gowns for women, and these styles come back in the Palio each spring, when district teams parade in period dress with banners and trumpets. Frescoes in the palaces and portraits in the galleries show the cut and colours of the age. In daily life, people dress smartly but simply. Dark jeans, linen shirts, light jackets and good leather shoes are common, and scarves appear as soon as the autumn fog rolls in. Cyclists often ride in work clothes. Visitors should pack for the season: breathable cotton or linen and a hat for hot, humid summers, and a warm coat, scarf and waterproof layer for damp winters. Comfortable flat shoes matter more than anything else, since the old centre has cobbles and long walks, and the city wall path is best done in trainers. For churches and the synagogue, carry a light scarf or shirt to cover shoulders and knees. Shorts and sleeveless tops are fine on the street, but smarter casual wear fits better for evening restaurants.

What to eat

Plan it

Best time. April–May and September–October, when days are mild and good for walking or cycling the walls. July and August are hot and humid, and winter is cold and often foggy, though the city is quiet then.

How long. 1–2

Getting there. Fly to Bologna (the nearest major airport) or Venice, then take a train; Ferrara is on the line linking Florence, Bologna and Venice. The last leg from the station to the old centre is a short walk or local bus.

Budget. mid

Tips

Etiquette

Nearby

Sources