Dambulla cave temple

Dambulla cave temple, Sri Lanka

The Dambulla cave temple rock seen through frangipani branches at sunrise.

Dambulla's rock-cut caves hold painted ceilings and 153 Buddha statues beneath a 160 m rock, best seen in the cool early morning.

The place

Dambulla cave temple stands in the central part of Sri Lanka, about 148 km east of Colombo, 72 km north of Kandy and 43 km north of Matale. It has been a World Heritage Site since 1991, but it remains an active place of worship, so monks, offerings and chanting are part of the scene rather than a performance laid on for visitors. Its main caves are cut into a rock that rises 160 m over the surrounding plains. Dozens of other caves have been recorded in the area, yet the temple's five caves hold nearly all of its statues and paintings.

The paintings and statues describe the life of Gautama Buddha. Inside are 153 Buddha images, three likenesses of island monarchs, and four deity sculptures, including Vishnu and Ganesha. The murals cover 2,100 square metres, and they show scenes such as the demon Mara tempting the Buddha and his first sermon. Many of the ceilings follow the curve of the rock, so the painted patterns seem to bend with the stone.

Because the site is still used for ritual, the rooms can feel busy with worshippers, particularly on full-moon days and public holidays. Tour groups tend to arrive through the late morning, so an early start brings a quieter climb up the steps and a clearer look at the murals. The approach is steep in places and the caves can be warm, so a steady pace and a supply of water make the visit far more comfortable.

Its story

Dambulla cave temple has roots that reach back to the first century BCE, when the caves beneath a large overhanging rock were first adapted for monks. A groove cut along the overhang sheds rainwater away from the walls, which helped keep the interiors dry and the paintings intact. In 1938 the entrances were given arched colonnades and gabled fronts, a change that gave the complex the look most visitors see today.

Tradition credits King Valagamba of Anuradhapura with turning the caves into a temple. He had been driven from his capital by South Indian usurpers and spent 15 years in hiding here. Once he regained his throne, he built the temple as an act of thanks. Subsequent kings expanded the site. By the 1000s CE, the caves were a major place of devotion, and people have kept worshipping there ever since.

In 1190 Nissanka Malla of Polonnaruwa had the caves gilded and placed a large number of additional Buddha statues in them. In the 18th century the Kingdom of Kandy restored the caves and repainted their walls. Kandy was the last independent Sinhalese kingdom, and it held out against Portuguese and Dutch attempts at conquest for generations before falling to the British in 1815. The temple outlasted that political change and is still in use.

Earlier still, people lived in these caves before Buddhism arrived on the island, and burial remains from that period have been found nearby at Ibbankatuwa. The complex therefore carries layers of use across many centuries, from prehistoric shelter to royal patronage to modern pilgrimage.

What to see

Culture

Dambulla is still a working Buddhist temple, and the caves are used for daily worship as well as for visits. The murals and statues are cared for under a long-running conservation effort that began in the 1960s and was later carried out with UNESCO and the Cultural Triangle Project. Much of the work has focused on keeping the existing layout intact, while improving paths, paving and lighting for visitors. Because the site is sacred, behaviour matters as much as appearance. Monks and pilgrims often sit quietly in the caves, and voices should be kept low. Photography is generally welcome, but flash can damage old paint, so switch it off and avoid touching the murals. Shoes must be removed before entering the caves, and visitors should keep their feet pointing away from the Buddha images. Shoulders and knees should be covered, so carry a light scarf or wrap that you can use as a shawl at the door. Hats should come off inside, and visitors should step back if a worshipper is praying in front of a statue. Any small offering can be left at the designated spots rather than on the statues themselves. Above all, remove your shoes at the foot of the stairs before you climb.

What to wear

Dambulla's dress tradition is the same as much of Sri Lanka's, with the sarong and the sari as the main garments. Men traditionally wear a sarong, a long piece of cloth wrapped around the waist and falling to the ankles, often in cotton. Women more often wear the sari, a length of fabric draped over a fitted blouse and petticoat, with cotton and silk the common materials, though many weave variations exist. Dress for religious and rural settings is still modest by convention.

In everyday life across the region, people mix traditional and modern clothing. Men commonly wear trousers and shirts, while sarongs are seen at home, in the countryside and at temples. Women may wear salwar kameez, skirts with blouses, or saris for special occasions and religious events. White is a common colour at temples, so it is a familiar sight in the crowd.

A visitor should choose light, loose clothing that covers the shoulders and knees, since the heat in the caves and the surrounding plains is intense. Sandals or shoes that slip off easily are the most practical choice, because footwear must be taken off at the cave entrances and the stone steps can be hot. A lightweight scarf is useful for covering shoulders at the temple door, and a sun hat helps on the climb to the caves.

What to eat

Plan it

Best time. The drier months, roughly January to March and July to September, are generally the most comfortable for the dry-zone plains around Dambulla. April and May can be very hot, and the monsoon-influenced months bring heavier rain. Check current forecasts before you travel.

How long. 1–2

Getting there. Colombo is about 148 km away, and Kandy is about 72 km south. Scheduled helicopter and light aircraft services from Colombo serve Sigiriya Airport (GIU), mostly. Kandy is very well connected to Colombo by train, and the last leg to Dambulla is by road from Kandy or Matale.

Budget. low

Tips

Etiquette

Nearby

Sources