Bay of Islands

Bay of Islands, New Zealand

A low-angle view across a wooden wharf toward the sunlit islands of the Bay of Islands at sunrise.

A drowned valley of islands and inlets in Northland, where sailing, fishing and early colonial history sit close together.

The place

The Bay of Islands sits on the east coast of the Far North District, at the top of New Zealand's North Island. Māori call it Te Pēwhairangi. Geologically it is a drowned river valley: the sea has flooded the lower land and left a scatter of islands, headlands and inlets behind. The bay holds about 144 islands, the largest being Urupukapuka, and its shape makes a natural harbour that is sheltered enough for family sailing yet open enough for a proper swell at the mouth. Kerikeri, the largest town, lies up the north-western inlets, while Paihia is the busiest base for boat trips. Russell sits on a short peninsula across the water and keeps an older waterfront feel. Visitors have come for fishing since the 1930s, and charter boats still crowd the wharves through summer. Expect the heaviest traffic from December to February, when Paihia's cafés and car parks fill quickly and cruise seats sell out. Away from the water the countryside is quieter, with orchards, kauri forest and farmland stretching inland, and Kerikeri's roadside stalls selling citrus in season.

Its story

The bay was settled by Māori long before European ships arrived. About 700 years ago the canoe Mātaatua was sailed here from the Bay of Plenty by Puhi, an ancestor of Ngāpuhi, whose people today form New Zealand's largest iwi. Communities spread across the bay and its islands, and Ngāti Miru built at Kerikeri, which became a departure point for inland Māori travelling to sea. Hōne Heke, born here, cut down the flagpole at Kororāreka several times, an act that set off the Flagstaff War. Captain Cook was the first European to visit, in 1769, and he named the region. Whalers followed toward the end of that century, and the first missionaries settled in 1814. In 1815 Thomas King was born at Oihi Bay, recorded as the first European child of full European descent born in the country, although an earlier birth at Dusky Sound has been claimed without proof. Kororāreka, now Russell, became the first permanent European settlement in New Zealand, and Okiato briefly served as the nation's first capital. Waitangi, where the Treaty was later signed, lies on the bay too. At Kerikeri the Stone Store is the oldest stone building in the country, and the nearby Kemp House is the oldest wooden structure still standing. Walking these sites shows how quickly the bay changed.

What to see

Culture

The Bay of Islands lies in Northland, where Māori culture is part of everyday life. Many people here have both Māori and European ancestry, and Māori place names such as Te Pēwhairangi appear on signs and maps. You will meet kaumātua, the elders, and hear about tikanga, the customs that guide behaviour on a marae and at formal events. At Waitangi the story of the Treaty is told openly, but it remains a sensitive subject, so ask questions with respect and expect a range of views. Māori arts are part of tourism here, and carving, weaving and singing often feature in cultural evenings. Old mission buildings are still used and visited by local people, so keep voices low around them. Many marae have their own protocols and visitors are welcomed through a formal process. At a marae, wait to be invited before stepping inside a meeting house, and ask before photographing anyone there.

What to wear

Traditional Māori dress centres on the kākahu, a cloak woven from harakeke (flax) fibre, often finished with soft muka and bordered with tāniko, a patterned band worked into the weaving. Chiefs wore finely made cloaks for ceremonies, and some older garments survive in museums. Feather cloaks, kahu huruhuru, were worn by high-ranking people and took a long time to make. Today most people in the bay dress like anyone in a small coastal town: shorts, T-shirts, jandals (flip-flops), and a fleece or raincoat in winter. For formal events and marae visits, people usually wear neat, covered clothing, and some wear woven or carved pieces such as pounamu pendants. For a visitor, pack light, breathable layers for the summer sun, a hat and sunscreen, and a windproof jacket for boat trips, since the sea can feel cool even in summer. Wear closed shoes with grip for rocky shores and forest tracks, and bring a covered top and long trousers or skirt for marae visits.

What to eat

Plan it

Best time. December to February brings warm, settled summer weather and swimmable water, but it is also the busiest season, so book boats and beds ahead. Winter is cooler and wetter, with fewer visitors and lower prices.

How long. 2–3

Getting there. Bay of Islands Airport at Kerikeri has flights several times a day from Auckland, taking about 45 minutes. From Auckland the last leg can be by coach or rental car along State Highway 1.

Budget. mid

Tips

Etiquette

Nearby

Sources