Auyuittuq National Park

Auyuittuq National Park, Canada

Granite peaks rise above the Weasel River mouth in Auyuittuq National Park at sunrise.

Auyuittuq is a remote Arctic park of ice caps, granite walls and fjords, reached only with planning for weather and rivers.

The place

Auyuittuq National Park occupies much of the Cumberland Peninsula on Baffin Island, in the Qikiqtaaluk Region of Nunavut, and it lies mostly within the Arctic Circle. Its 21,470 square kilometres take in fjords, glaciers and ice fields rather than the forests or lakes most park visitors expect. At the centre sits the Penny Ice Cap, a vast sheet of ice that rests on very old granite and feeds a set of glaciers running down toward the valleys. Between the ice and the sea the land breaks into steep peaks and deep valleys, while narrow fjords cut into the coast. Weather is the main force here. In Akshayuk Pass gusts can reach 175 km/h, and summer rivers rise through the afternoon as meltwater pours off the ice. Access is limited because Nunavut has no road network between its communities. Walkers reach the park by boat from Pangnirtung in the south or Qikiqtarjuaq in the north, and the gateway towns are where transport is arranged, park staff are consulted and the required briefing takes place. The Inuktitut name speaks to ice that persists in this landscape, a fitting description for a park where glaciers define the terrain. Crowds are rarely an issue; the rewards come from solitude, scale and the sense of being a long way from help.

Its story

Auyuittuq National Park was first set aside under a different name, Baffin Island National Park, which described the island rather than the terrain inside it. The current name dates from 1976, and the change was a choice meant to reflect the land and its Inuit past. The Inuktitut word at its heart is usually translated as a reference to ice that does not disappear, and the name signals how central the land and its people are to the park's identity. Long before the park existed, Inuit families travelled the fjords and valleys of the Cumberland Peninsula for hunting and seasonal movement, and their knowledge of routes, ice and weather still shapes how people cross the land. The place was later protected as a reserve, and in time it gained the fuller status of a national park, which brought firmer rules for the glaciers and the coast. Its geology explains much of the drama. The Penny Ice Cap rests on Precambrian granite, and the ice has carved deep valleys between the peaks, leaving rock walls that now draw climbers from around the world. The Weasel River and Summit Lake have also shaped the modern story. A flood in 2008, after heavy rain and warm weather, changed which routes walkers could follow through the pass, and the park's managers still set limits on that basis. Today the park remains a place of ice and wind, with its history written as much in the landscape as in its records.

What to see

Culture

Auyuittuq National Park sits within the traditional homeland of Inuit in Canada, and the communities of Pangnirtung and Qikiqtarjuaq are where most visitors begin. Inuit hunters and families have used this coast for generations, and their knowledge of ice, weather and animal movement still guides travel here. Hunting remains part of community life, and conversations about the land often carry more weight than any tourist guidance. Inuktitut is the first language of many people in the gateway towns, and English and French are also in use. Greetings are usually simple and friendly, and a short conversation in a store or at the harbour goes a long way. The park itself is managed by Parks Canada, which sets rules on camping, food storage and river crossings. Ask before photographing anyone in the communities, and keep food and waste secured at every campsite.

What to wear

Auyuittuq National Park lies in a region where traditional clothing was shaped around survival in the cold, and Inuit design remains the best guide to what works. The amauti, a hooded parka with a deep back pouch for carrying a baby, is the classic women's design, while the atigi was the matching parka for men. Both were cut from caribou skin or sealskin, chosen for warmth, lightness and wind resistance, and sewn with sinew thread. Kamiik, skin boots with fur or wool liners, kept feet dry on ice and wet ground. Today most people in the communities wear modern insulated parkas, snow pants, boots and warm layers, often with a traditional touch such as a sealskin mitt or beaded trim worn at celebrations. Visitors need layers that cope with wind and sudden drops in temperature. Choose a waterproof, windproof outer shell, a fleece or wool mid-layer, thermal base layers, and warm gloves and a hat that stay on in gusts. Footwear should be sturdy, waterproof and well broken in, with gaiters to keep gravel and snow out. Modesty is not a formal issue here, but religious sites are rare, so dress for the cold rather than for display.

What to eat

Plan it

Best time. Late July to September, once ice break-up has ended and boats run; July is the warmest month, August the wettest, and early summer and spring or autumn bring harder travel and colder conditions.

How long. 2–3 weeks

Getting there. Fly to Iqaluit on Baffin Island, take a Canadian North connection to Pangnirtung or Qikiqtarjuaq, and arrange the final boat ride into the park with a local outfitter.

Budget. high

Tips

Etiquette

Nearby

Sources