Aqaba

Aqaba, Jordan

Sailing boats moored at Tala Bay marina under a golden sunset over the Red Sea.

Aqaba is Jordan's only sea city, a calm Red Sea base for snorkelling, with desert trips to Wadi Rum and the old port within easy reach.

The place

Aqaba is the only coastal city in Jordan, at the northern tip of the Red Sea, where Asia and Africa come close together. It sits almost at sea level, about 6 metres above it, so the air by the water stays humid for much of the year even when the desert inland is dry. The city is the administrative centre of its governorate and home to the country's main port, so cargo cranes stand in view of the swimming areas. Most of the town is a grid of plain modern streets running down to the shore, with a resort strip to the south and a denser old centre near the citadel and the fish market.

Its appeal is partly the sea and partly its position. Snorkelling and diving in the gulf draw many visitors, and the marina and hotel beaches are where most people spend their afternoons. Inland, the red sand and rock of Wadi Rum and the ruins of Petra lie within reach by road, so Aqaba works well as a base for a few nights before or after the desert. Its population of about 140,000 keeps the town small enough to cross on foot in parts, and it feels quieter than the big cities of the Gulf. Nightlife has grown in recent years as tourist numbers rose, but most evenings still centre on the seafront, a meal and a slow stroll.

Its story

The site has been settled for a very long time. Excavations at two mounds a few kilometres north of the modern city show inhabited settlements from around 4000 BCE, in the Chalcolithic period, when people here produced copper on a large scale. Archaeologists from the University of Jordan found a small building whose walls carry human and animal drawings, which suggests a religious use. The inhabitants had built a water system to irrigate crops of grapes, olives and wheat, and they made clay pots of several sizes for melting and reshaping copper. This era left no written records, so much of what we know comes from the ground itself.

Later the settlement was called Elath, and its nearness to copper mines kept it a trading hub. Under Byzantine control the town took the name Aela and became a bishopric. The Aqaba Church was also erected here, and it is the oldest known Christian church built for that purpose anywhere in the world. After the Islamic conquest the town became known as Ayla. The name Aqaba itself only came into common use in the late medieval period. During the Great Arab Revolt, a battle fought here saw joint Arab and British forces defeat Ottoman troops, and that episode remains part of how the city tells its story.

What to see

Culture

Aqaba is a Muslim city with strong family life, and the conservative habits of Jordan apply here even on the beaches and in the resort areas. Public life is calm in the middle of the day, and many shops and eateries slow down through the afternoon heat. The city has a long Christian history, visible in its early church ruins, and people of different faiths mix easily in the markets and on the seafront. Nightlife has grown in recent years around the marina and the resort hotels, but the old centre remains a family neighbourhood. Greetings are warm and conversation is part of the day, so take time over tea when it is offered. Dress modestly in the old centre and near mosques, remove your shoes before entering any mosque or home, and ask before photographing anyone, especially women.

What to wear

Traditional dress in Aqaba follows the wider Jordanian and Bedouin style. Men wear long robes called thobes, usually in white or pale cotton for the heat, often with a headcloth known as the ghutra, held in place by a black cord called the agal. Women's traditional dress is a long, loose gown, and in the Bedouin tradition these are often decorated with coloured cross-stitch and bands of embroidery, a craft still practised across the desert south. Wool and goat hair were historically used for tents and heavy cloth, while cotton suits the coast. Today most people wear Western clothes for work, such as jeans and shirts, and many women wear loose coats, headscarves or the abaya. At weddings, festivals and religious occasions, many people still wear traditional dress. For a visitor, lightweight cotton or linen that covers the shoulders and knees is the easiest choice in the sun, with a scarf to carry for mosques and the old town. Swimwear belongs on the beach and at hotel pools. Walking shoes or sturdy sandals suit the rock and sand of the desert trips, and a wide-brimmed hat matters for most of the year.

What to eat

Plan it

Best time. December to February is the most comfortable time, with highs of about 29 to 31 °C, while the rest of the year is much hotter. Summer is very hot, so swim early or late and keep the middle of the day for shade.

How long. 2–3

Getting there. Aqaba has a small airport served by a few airlines, but most visitors arrive by road. The Desert Highway runs from Amman to Aqaba, about four hours' drive, with frequent buses and taxis from Petra.

Budget. mid

Tips

Etiquette

Nearby

Sources