Yungang Grottoes

Yungang Grottoes, People's Republic of China

Low-angle view of the Yungang Grottoes sandstone cliff carved with Buddha statues, lit by morning sun.

A vast cliffside of Buddhist carving outside Datong, best seen in October when the valley is mild and comfortable to walk.

The place

The Yungang Grottoes sit in the valley of the Shi Li river, about 16 km west of Datong in Shanxi province. The caves are hollowed from a rock wall facing south, a stretch of soft sandstone running along the foot of the Wuzhou Shan mountains. The approach is a flat walk beside the rock rather than a climb, and the cliff reveals itself as a continuous wall of niches, doorways and seated and standing figures. Across the site there are about fifty major caves and tens of thousands of niches holding Buddha images, along with many smaller grottoes. A Ming dynasty fort still stands on top of the cliff, a reminder that the hill has served as a military position as well as a shrine. The grottoes are one of three celebrated ancient Buddhist carving sites in China, alongside Longmen and Mogao, and UNESCO inscribed them as a World Heritage Site in 2001. Because the rock is soft, wind, rain and winter frost have worn many of the figures, and conservation work is visible in scaffolding and protective structures over some caves. Give yourself half a day at least. The stone is striking, but the scale rewards slow looking, and the temples in Datong city make a useful second stop.

Its story

The story starts with the Tuoba, a people who took control of northern China after the Western Jin dynasty declined and ruled as the Northern Wei. They chose Pingcheng, the city now called Datong, as their capital, and the city grew quickly on the back of that status. The Northern Wei adopted Buddhism as their state religion early on. The faith reached this region along the northern branch of the Silk Road, the trade route that linked the old capital at Chang'an with the western regions. Carving began in the valley during the fifth century. The first group of caves was finished by the middle of that century. A second wave followed in the late fifth century, with paired caves and larger halls commissioned with imperial support. That patronage ended when the court moved south to Luoyang, and the later caves were funded by private donors, families and officials seeking religious merit. Work continued into the early sixth century until unrest in the area brought it to a halt. Afterwards the cliff was no longer carved on the same scale. Centuries of exposure have worn the sandstone, and many carvings in the open air are now soft and blurred. Parts of the site have been stabilised, but the weathering is ongoing, and it is one reason the original paint and fine detail survive mainly in the sheltered caves.

What to see

Culture

Datong is a working city that sees relatively few foreign visitors, so you may be the only non-Chinese face on the path. People tend to be friendly and curious rather than wary, and it is normal for strangers to ask where you are from. The caves and temples here are active places of worship as well as heritage sites. Some figures are still treated with reverence, and worshippers may leave incense or make offerings in front of them. Dress modestly, keep your voice low inside the caves, and step aside for people who are praying. Flash photography is often restricted in the caves because light can damage old pigments. The sandstone is soft and easily harmed, so keep your hands off the carvings and ask a guard before taking photographs inside any cave.

What to wear

Traditional dress around Datong follows the wider Han Chinese style of the north, with a strong influence from the neighbouring Mongolian grasslands. Han women historically wore cotton and silk jackets with long skirts or loose trousers, and winter clothing was padded with cotton wadding or lined with sheepskin. Mongolian herders in the surrounding region wear the long-sleeved deel, usually made from wool or brocade and tied at the waist with a sash. Silk and cotton were the main textiles for everyday wear, while embroidery and richly dyed cloth signalled status. Monastic robes at Buddhist sites are usually plain grey, brown or saffron. Today most people in Datong wear practical western-style clothing such as jeans, padded winter jackets and trainers, with some older residents still choosing tailored traditional jackets. For a visit, dress for a cold, windy valley in winter and late autumn, and for a hot, dusty one from April to September. Layers work best, since the caves are cool even on a warm day. Wear shoes with good grip, because the paths are uneven and include steps. Cover shoulders and knees when entering temples, and avoid revealing clothing inside working shrines.

What to eat

Plan it

Best time. October, when highs are around 26 C and rain is light, is the most comfortable time to walk the valley, while April, May and September run hot. Winters are bitterly cold and summers are hot, so those months are harder going.

How long. 2–3

Getting there. Fly into Datong Yungang Airport, or take a high-speed train from Beijing, which takes about 1.5 hours to Datong South Railway Station; trips from nearby Shanxi cities are under 2.5 hours. From either station, take a taxi or bus for the 16 km to the grottoes.

Budget. low

Tips

Etiquette

Nearby

Sources