Tofino

Tofino, Canada

A low-angle view of Cox Bay in Tofino, showing wet sand, driftwood and ocean waves beneath coastal rainforest.

Go for the wild Pacific coast, the big surf and the storm-watching, and come prepared for rain for much of the year.

The place

Tofino is a small town of roughly 2,516 people on the west coast of Vancouver Island in British Columbia, Canada. It sits on the tip of the Esowista Peninsula at the southern edge of Clayoquot Sound, where the road from the east runs out at the sea. The town stands in the traditional territory of the Tla-o-qui-aht First Nations, and that history frames everything else about the place.

The population swells far beyond its winter size in summer, when surfers, hikers, campers, bird watchers, whale watchers and anglers arrive in numbers that can make the main streets busy. Winter is quieter. Many people still come then, on purpose, to watch Pacific storms break over the headlands and the outer beaches.

The village is compact, so cafes, bakeries, surf shops and the waterfront are mostly within walking distance. For a settlement this size the food scene is unusually strong, because a number of chefs and culinary professionals have settled here and restaurants and specialty shops have followed. Booking ahead is sensible in July and August.

The beaches are the main draw. Long Beach, inside Pacific Rim National Park Reserve, is a long run of sand that stays popular all year, and other coves and headlands are reached by short drives or walks. The weather is the constant companion: mild, damp and changeable, with rain sitting over the forest for much of the year. Packing for it makes sense, and a grey day is the normal state of things rather than a disappointment.

Its story

The land around Tofino has been home to the Tla-o-qui-aht people for thousands of years. They developed from a number of smaller bands that previously lived near Kennedy Lake, and their lands eventually extended to include Tofino Inlet, the Esowista Peninsula and Meares Island. Their principal village, Opitsaht, lies across the harbour from the present town and has been lived in for a very long time, while Indigenous life on Clayoquot Sound stretches back far further than any written record.

The peninsula's name is tied to a past conquest, when the Tla-o-qui-aht overcame the Esowistaht people who had once held the land. The word used for it carries a blunt, violent meaning that local memory still preserves.

From the late eighteenth century, sea otter pelts drew European and American ships to this coast, and trade with the Nuu-chah-nulth reshaped life along the shore. The British trader John Meares described visiting a chief at Echachis and found a great crowd of people gathered in one communal house, a sign of how populous the coastal villages were before settlement.

Permanent non-Indigenous settlement began in the 1890s. The community took its present name from the nearby inlet, and a post office opened in 1909. Tofino received municipal status in 1932, and in 1982 it was designated a district. Logging, fishing and, later, tourism shaped the town's economy, and the surfing, whale watching and storm-watching that draw visitors today are the newest chapter in a coast that has been used for a very long time.

What to see

Culture

Tofino's cultural life is rooted in the Tla-o-qui-aht First Nations and the wider Nuu-chah-nulth peoples, whose territory this is, and visitors encounter that history in place names, in the gardens and galleries, and in the community's pride in its coast. Several events mark the seasons. Each March the grey whale migration is celebrated with the Pacific Rim Whale Festival, which brings art, films and tours across Tofino and Ucluelet. The last weekend of April was once given over to the Tofino Shorebird Festival. In the past, the first weekend of June brought a festival centred on regional vintages from British Columbia and the dishes of Tofino's chefs. Every Saturday from the Victoria Day long weekend until early October, the Tofino Market sets up on the Village Green. Early September brings a week-long fishing tournament, and the Queen of the Peak women's surf championship usually takes place late in the month. Festival dates change, so check local listings before you plan around one. When visiting Indigenous sites, cultural centres or community events, follow posted instructions and ask before photographing people or ceremonies.

What to wear

Traditional dress on this coast is built around the materials of the forest and the sea. Among the Nuu-chah-nulth peoples, cedar bark was woven into capes, hats and clothing, and the skill of working cedar was passed between generations. Woven cedar hats and capes are still made today, and they appear at ceremonies and public events, usually alongside regalia made from wool, cloth and carved or painted elements. Many local people now wear everyday clothing much like anyone else on the West Coast, with a strong emphasis on practicality. Rain jackets, waterproof boots, fleece and wool layers are the common sight in town, and surfers and fishing crews wear thick wetsuits and oilskins. Visitors should dress for a damp, cool coast in layers that can be stripped off or added to: a waterproof outer shell, a warm mid-layer and quick-drying clothes underneath. Sturdy waterproof footwear suits the beach, the boardwalk and the muddy trails of the rain forest. Carry a warm hat and gloves for winter storm-watching, and avoid heavy cotton, which stays wet and cold. Modesty is not a formal concern here, but tidy, weather-ready clothing is appreciated at community events and at any Indigenous cultural site.

What to eat

Plan it

Best time. Late spring to early autumn gives the mildest and driest weather, with cool summers and comfortable days for beaches and trails. Winter is wet and stormy, which suits storm-watchers but makes the beaches and trails harder going. Summer is the busiest and most expensive season, so mid-week and shoulder-season trips are calmer.

How long. 2–3

Getting there. Fly into Vancouver or Victoria, then take a long drive or a ferry-and-drive route across Vancouver Island to the western coast; this is the usual way for most visitors. A small airstrip nearby serves light aircraft and seaplanes for shorter, pricier trips.

Budget. high

Tips

Etiquette

Nearby

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