Tōdai-ji

Tōdai-ji, Japan

The Great Buddha Hall of Tōdai-ji viewed across a grassy field with deer at sunset.

Go for the giant bronze Buddha in its vast wooden hall, then walk the park where deer wander between the temples.

The place

Tōdai-ji (東大寺, 'Eastern Great Temple') is a Buddhist temple complex in the city of Nara, in western Japan. At one time it ranked among the influential Seven Great Temples of the early state. Its layout was meant to echo the Chinese monasteries of the Tang dynasty, which the court admired, so the complex was planned on an ambitious scale from the start. The first foundation dates to 738, but the temple was not formally opened until 752, the year recorded in its facts.

Most of what stands today belongs to later rebuilds rather than to the original buildings. The site sits at the edge of Nara Park, so the approach is a walk over open grass, with deer moving among the visitors and the gates. The Great Buddha Hall, Daibutsuden, is the centrepiece. It is broad and high, with a heavy, sweeping roof, and the statue inside seems to fill the space without crowding it. This bronze image is Vairocana Buddha, which Japanese speakers call Daibutsu, and it is the largest bronze Buddha figure in the world.

The temple remains a working religious centre and the headquarters of the Kegon tradition in Japan, so the hall is used for ceremonies as well as sightseeing. Mornings are calmer, weekdays are quieter than weekends and school-trip days, and summer afternoons are hot and humid. The open paths offer little shade, so the middle of the day is best spent indoors or in the museums nearby.

Its story

Tōdai-ji began in a period of hardship. Japan was hit by a run of disasters and epidemics during the Tenpyō era, and in 741 Emperor Shōmu issued an edict to build provincial temples across the country. Tōdai-ji, still known as Kinshōsen-ji at that time, was made the chief provincial temple of Yamato Province. In 743 the emperor commissioned the great Buddha. The years were unsettled: the court moved the capital several times, and rebellions and a smallpox outbreak unsettled the realm.

Later centuries brought both damage and rebuilding. In 1181 Minamoto Yoritomo sponsored a reconstruction led by the monk Chōgen, who brought existing buildings into a common design and made the exposed pillars sturdier. The Buddha was repaired after serious damage in 1692, and the Great Buddha Hall was rebuilt in 1709. By the late 19th century the hall was close to collapse under the weight of its roof. A first restoration between 1904 and 1913 saved it, and steel framing completed the present appearance between 1974 and 1980.

A legend from the early period tells of the monk Gyōki travelling to Ise Grand Shrine to reconcile Shinto with Buddhism. The story shows how closely the two traditions were tied together in early Japan, and it helps explain why the temple and the shrines of Nara grew up side by side.

What to see

Culture

Tōdai-ji is a working temple as well as a major attraction, so the Great Buddha Hall is a place of worship first. Monks and lay worshippers pray in front of the statue, and ceremonies can take place during the day. Visitors arrive in a steady stream, which keeps the floor moving, so pausing in the middle of the room to take pictures slows everyone down. In local tradition the deer of Nara Park are linked to Kasuga Taisha, where they are treated as messengers of the gods. They approach people hoping for food, so keep bags closed and avoid chasing or grabbing them. Photography rules inside some halls are set by the temple and posted near the entrance, so check them before raising a camera. Keep voices low inside the buildings and step aside for people who are praying. Remove your shoes wherever a raised step and a slipper rack show that footwear should come off.

What to wear

Tōdai-ji sits in a city where traditional dress has long meant the kimono, usually made from silk or cotton with woven or dyed patterns. Monks wear robes in plain, muted tones, and formal ceremonies bring out layered silk garments in carefully chosen colours. In summer, many people wear the lighter cotton yukata, which is simpler to put on and easier to walk in.

What people wear now is mostly practical and ordinary: jeans, trainers, layered jackets in cooler months, and school uniforms on group trips. Most locals dress neatly rather than formally, and dark or subdued colours are common in the city.

For a visit, dress for walking. The park is large, the paths mix gravel and stone, and the approach to the hall is long. Choose comfortable shoes that slip on and off easily, because you may need to remove them at some buildings. In summer, pick light breathable fabric, a hat and a bottle of water, since the open paths offer little shade. In winter, layers and a windproof jacket help in the open park. Modest, simple clothing suits a temple, and shoulders and knees are best covered inside the halls.

What to eat

Plan it

Best time. Spring (March–April) brings blossom in and around Nara Park, and autumn (October–November) brings crisp weather and autumn colour. June is the rainy season, and July and August are hot and humid.

How long. 1–2

Getting there. Fly into Kansai International Airport, then take the Airport Limousine bus or the rail link to Nara. From Kyoto, the Kintetsu line to Kintetsu Nara station is the quickest route, and the main sights are a walk away from there.

Budget. low

Tips

Etiquette

Nearby

Sources