Suðuroy

Suðuroy, Faroe Islands

The dark basalt cliff of Beinisvørð rises above the Atlantic at sunset, with pink thrift and wet boulders in the foreground.

Suðuroy is the Faroes' quiet southern island, where steep sea cliffs, small villages and a ferry ride from Tórshavn make a slow, weather-led trip.

The place

Suðuroy, whose name means South Island, sits at the bottom of the Faroese chain and has about 4,600 residents. They live in a string of small villages, from Sandvík and Hvalba in the north down to Lopra and Sumba near the tip. The east coast is the gentler side, with sheltered fjords and the two largest settlements, Tvøroyri and Vágur, each built around a working harbour. The west coast is another matter: mountain slopes run green and then simply stop, dropping straight into the Atlantic. The highest summit is Gluggarnir at 610 metres, but local poets have made a different peak the island's emblem, the sea cliff of Beinisvørð above Sumba. Suðuroy is also the only Faroese island with coal, and one mine near Hvalba still works, a surprise in a landscape that otherwise looks entirely pastoral. Villages here are small and tend to be quiet, so a day often means a few conversations, a lot of walking and plenty of weather. Fog arrives fast, sheep wander onto the road, and the cliffs give little warning. In return there are few other visitors, even in summer, and a sense of an island that is still lived in rather than staged for tourists.

Its story

Suðuroy has a history of loss and return that shows in its map. Akraberg, a settlement on the southern tip, was abandoned around 1350 after the Black Death. Tradition says its people had come from Friesland, and some families in Hørg, in Sumba, still trace their roots to it. In the 17th century the island suffered raids by North African pirates, whom the Faroese called Turks. Women and children were taken, famine followed, and many islanders died. Hvalba served as a base for the raiders, and Danish warships arrived only after they had sailed. Settlement later crept back. Sandvík was re-established in the 19th century, and Botni and Tjaldavík were founded in the twentieth, though both have since been left empty again. Coal mining, fishing and fish processing shaped working life for generations, and the harbours of Tvøroyri and Vágur grew with them. Since the 1970s the population has drifted downwards, as young people leave for Tórshavn or abroad, which explains the shuttered houses in some villages. Even so, Suðuroy keeps a strong identity, and in Fámjin the first Faroese flag is still kept in the church, a reminder that this small island has long counted for more than its size suggests.

What to see

Culture

Suðuroy shares the wider Faroese culture of sheep, sea and song, but with a local accent. Residents of the south are known for speaking a distinctive dialect, and the island's own identity is strong. Village life revolves around the harbour, the church and the football pitch, and in summer rowing races between villages draw crowds to the quayside at Vágur and elsewhere. The wooden church in Fámjin matters beyond its parish, since the first Faroese flag was made by two young men from the village, and the story is told with some pride. Old assembly sites, such as the former Thing meeting place on the way to Fámjin, recall a tradition of local self-government that long predates modern politics. Coal mining gave the island a working-class character unusual in the Faroes, and mining families still shape local memory. The bays at Øravík, Trongisvágur, Fámjin, Vágur and Hvalba are legally designated for the traditional pilot whale hunt, known as the grind, which is a contested subject; visitors will meet strong opinions on both sides and are best advised to listen before offering their own. Hospitality is real but unshowy, and offers of coffee are usually sincere. Treat the outfield and the sheep as working land: stay on paths, close every gate behind you, and ask before crossing a hay field or walking near a house.

What to wear

Suðuroy shares the Faroese national dress, called the búni, and it is mostly seen on special days rather than in daily life. Women's versions use fine wool with embroidered bodices, shawls and silver fastenings, while men's costume includes dark wool breeches, a waistcoat and a knitted cap. Wool is the core textile because the islands' sheep supply it, and the Faroese knitting tradition produces patterned jumpers and shawls that are still worn and sold. The costume appears at weddings, confirmations and national celebrations, particularly around Ólavsøka in summer. Everyday clothing on the island is practical: waterproof jackets, wool jumpers, sturdy boots and a hat, since wind and rain can arrive on any day. Smart clothes come out for church and family gatherings, but nobody expects formal wear from a visitor. For a trip, pack layers rather than one heavy coat: a base layer, a wool or fleece mid layer and a proper waterproof shell with a hood. Waterproof walking boots with good grip are essential on wet grass and loose scree, and a spare pair of dry socks is worth carrying. Even in summer an evening on a headland can feel cold, so bring gloves and a warm hat. In church or at a service, dress neatly and keep to quiet colours.

What to eat

Plan it

Best time. June to August, when days are long, the weather is at its mildest and ferries and walking paths are at their most dependable; even then expect wind, rain and sudden fog, and winter brings short days and rougher crossings.

How long. 2–3

Getting there. Fly to Vágar Airport, reach Tórshavn by road, then take the public ferry to Suðuroy, which takes about 2 hours and runs several times a day. A helicopter service also links Tórshavn and Vágar Airport with the island a few times a week; check the operator's current timetable and fares before you travel.

Budget. mid

Tips

Etiquette

Nearby

Sources