Sibiu

Sibiu, Romania

The Council Tower on the Great Square of Sibiu glows in low evening light, framed by a cast-iron lamp in the foreground.

Sibiu is a walkable Transylvanian town of pastel squares, Saxon towers and good cellar cooking, with a calmer pace than most Romanian tourist stops.

The place

Sibiu sits in central Romania, in the historical region of Transylvania, on the Cibin River, a tributary of the Olt. It lies about 275 km north-west of Bucharest, at an elevation of 434 m, and has roughly 134,000 residents. Germans call it Hermannstadt and Hungarians Nagyszeben, and all three names still turn up on plaques, menus and old maps.

The historic core is split in two. The Upper Town stands on a bluff and holds the main squares: the Great Square, the Small Square and Huet Square, all linked by arched passages and short lanes. The Lower Town runs down towards the river, with older, plainer houses and a more everyday feel. Covered stairways and steep alleys join the two levels, and they are among the most photogenic corners of the city.

The town's nickname, the Town with Eyes, comes from the small attic windows that sit in the tiled roofs like half-closed eyelids. Pastel façades, stretches of the old defensive wall and several towers complete the picture. Almost everything worth seeing lies within a flat ten-minute walk of the Great Square, so the city suits a slow wander more than a checklist.

Sibiu is busiest in summer and during festival weekends, when the squares fill with stages and terraces. Winters are cold and quiet, and a few smaller sights keep shorter hours. Spring and early autumn give the best balance of light, mild weather and elbow room. The city also works well as a base for the fortified villages and hill roads in the surrounding countryside.

Its story

Sibiu began as a settlement of Saxon colonists, German-speaking families who were invited into Transylvania by the Hungarian crown in the 12th century. They came from lands that are now Germany, France and the Low Countries, and they built a town that was meant to defend itself. In 1191 a papal document confirmed the Saxons' church organisation in Transylvania, with its seat here, which is why that year is the usual date for the city's founding. By 1223 the name Villa Hermanni was in use, probably honouring a man called Hermann, though historians disagree over which one.

For centuries Sibiu was the leading town of the Saxon community. Guilds, walls and towers made it a commercial and defensive centre, and the Saxon university was based here. Power over the region shifted around it: the Hungarian kingdom gave way to the Principality of Transylvania, which in turn passed under the Habsburgs. Under Habsburg rule Sibiu served as capital of Transylvania more than once, and the Baroque townhouses and the grand museum collection are legacies of that official, cultured period.

The twentieth century brought Romanian rule, then communism, and many Saxon families left over the following decades. The German-language school and theatre section remain, though the community is now small. After the fall of communism the old centre was repaired, and in 2007 Sibiu shared the title of European Capital of Culture with Luxembourg City. That year did much to reintroduce the town to visitors, and it still shapes the festivals and restored façades seen today.

What to see

Culture

Sibiu is a town where three traditions overlap: Romanian, Saxon German and Hungarian. Church bells, street names and school signs still carry that mix, and the Orthodox and Lutheran cathedrals stand a few minutes apart. Visitors will notice that many older residents switch between languages without thinking.

The performing arts are unusually strong for a city of its size. The Radu Stanca National Theatre has roots going back to the eighteenth century and runs both Romanian-language and German-language companies, attracting well-known directors from across the country. The Gong Theatre specialises in puppetry, mime and unconventional shows for children and teenagers, also in two languages. The State Philharmonic gives weekly classical concerts, and the university's acting students stage regular performances of their own.

Festivals fill much of the summer, with theatre, music and street events spreading across the squares. Daily life is more modest: coffee on a terrace, a long lunch of soup and grilled meat, and an evening stroll under the arches. Sundays are quiet, and churches are the focus of the morning.

In the Orthodox cathedral, cover your shoulders and knees, keep your voice low, and ask before photographing worshippers or services in progress.

What to wear

Sibiu's traditional dress reflects its mixed population. Transylvanian Saxon women's costume typically combined an embroidered white blouse, a pleated skirt, a dark bodice or jacket and, for married women, a distinctive headdress. Romanian village costume is built around the ie, a linen, cotton or hemp blouse with dense hand embroidery, worn with wraparound woollen skirts and woven belts. Both are now brought out for weddings, church festivals, folk events and heritage days, and are seen in the surrounding villages more often than on the city's streets.

On an ordinary day, people in Sibiu dress much as in other central European towns: jeans, jackets, trainers and good coats in winter. Younger residents lean towards casual, slightly smart city style, and dressing up for the theatre or philharmonic is common. Embroidered blouses and folk-inspired accessories do appear as everyday fashion, especially in summer.

A visitor should plan for a continental climate. Summers are warm and can be hot at midday, so light, breathable clothes and a hat help, with a layer for the evening. Winters are cold, so a proper coat, hat and gloves are needed. The old town is paved with cobbles and uneven stones, so comfortable shoes with grip matter more than anything else. For churches, carry a scarf or light shawl and avoid very short shorts or sleeveless tops, particularly in Orthodox buildings.

What to eat

Plan it

Best time. May–June and September–October, when days are mild and the squares are lively but not crushing. July and August are warm and busy with festivals; winter is cold, quiet and good for atmosphere, though some sights keep shorter hours.

How long. 2–3

Getting there. Sibiu has a small airport with limited routes, so check current connections, and many visitors fly to Bucharest instead. Trains and buses from Bucharest and Cluj-Napoca run several times a day and are reliable and cheap; check times on Autogari.ro for buses. Budapest is a long journey by rail or road. From the station or bus terminal, the old town is a short walk or taxi ride.

Budget. low

Tips

Etiquette

Nearby

Sources