Seljalandsfoss

Seljalandsfoss, Iceland

The sun shines through the curtain of Seljalandsfoss waterfall from behind the falls at sunset.

Walk behind a 60 m curtain of water on South Iceland's farmland, then carry on to the south coast.

The place

Seljalandsfoss sits in the South Region of Iceland, right beside the Ring Road where a side road heads towards the highlands. The water drops about 60 m over a cliff, and the Seljalands River that feeds it rises from the glacier-capped volcano Eyjafjallajökull. The fall is one of many along this stretch of the south coast, but it stands out because a path curves around its side. Walkers can step behind the sheet of water into a small cave, and the spray catches the light in a way that photographs well. Expect to get wet, especially when the wind swings. Most visitors give the falls an hour or so before moving on. The surrounding land is mainly farmland, with sheep, cattle and horses grazing close to the road. A car park serves the falls, and buses to the highland valley of Þórsmörk leave from it. A campground nearby means the area also works as an overnight base. Flow is strongest after heavy rain or spring melt, when the cascade looks its fullest, and winter brings ice on the path and short, grey days. The south coast gives no shelter from the Atlantic, so a stop that feels calm on a summer afternoon can be bleak in a gale.

Its story

The land around Seljalandsfoss belongs to some of the best-known stories in Icelandic literature. Njáls saga, one of the most celebrated of the family sagas, unfolds largely across this southern countryside. Its title character lives at Bergþórshvoll, and the warrior Gunnar comes from Hlíðarendi in the Fljótshlíð valley, near Hvolsvöllur. Those farms still stand, but visitors should not expect medieval ruins. Turf and timber were never built to last in Iceland, so the buildings on the sites today are modern. The scenery, however, is much as the saga writers would have known it: green slopes, glacier rivers and open sky. Power in medieval Iceland also gathered here. Skálholt housed the bishop for the south and east of the island for centuries, and it stayed a diocese seat until the nineteenth century. Further north-west, at Þingvellir, the assembly met in the open to make laws and settle disputes. Parliament there lost its lawmaking role in the seventeenth century but kept sitting as a court until the early nineteenth century. Iceland was declared a republic at the same site in the middle of the twentieth century, so the place still carries national weight. When you stand by the falls, you are close to the settings of stories Icelanders have passed down for centuries.

What to see

Culture

Seljalandsfoss is a natural landmark rather than a place of worship, so the manners here are about safety, the land and other visitors. Much of the countryside around it is farmland, with sheep, cattle and horses grazing close to the road. Fields and fences belong to working farms, so stay on the marked paths and shut any gate you open. Parking and campsites near the falls are shared spaces, so keep noise low in the evening and take care with tents and campfires. The south coast can turn dangerous quickly, with strong tides and sand that looks firm but is not, so heed local signs and never walk too close to the sea. Photography is welcome, but ask before you photograph a person's face or their children, and avoid flying drones near the crowds. Near the falls, keep to the paths and off the wet rocks, and take all your rubbish home with you.

What to wear

The traditional dress of Iceland is the búningur, a national costume worn at festivals and formal occasions. It has an embroidered bodice and a long skirt, usually in dark wool, finished with silver jewellery such as brooches and a belt. Icelandic wool, called lopi, is the traditional material. Its coarse, warm yarn is used for the lopapeysa, a yoked sweater knitted in undyed colours and patterns worn across the country for generations. You will still see these sweaters in shops and on farms, though most people now wear modern outdoor clothing for daily life. People in the countryside dress for the weather: waterproof shells, fleece, thermal base layers and sturdy boots. Fashion here is practical rather than showy. A visitor should dress for wind, rain and sudden cold, even in summer. Pack a windproof, waterproof jacket with a hood, a warm mid-layer such as a wool sweater, gloves and a hat. Choose boots with good grip for wet rock and loose gravel, and avoid thin trainers, because the path around the falls can be slick. There is no formal dress code at the falls, but practical clothing suits a rural site.

What to eat

Plan it

Best time. Late June to August, when the Ring Road and highland tracks are open and the days are long, though the weather can change at any time and wind is common. Spring and early autumn are quieter and cooler. Winter brings short days, ice on the path and snow on the approach roads.

How long. 1–2

Getting there. Fly into Keflavík International Airport, near Reykjavík, then drive the Ring Road east, or join a coach tour from the capital. There are no flights to mainland South Iceland, so the last leg is by car or coach.

Budget. mid

Tips

Etiquette

Nearby

Sources