Poenari Castle

Poenari Castle, Romania

The ruined walls of Poenari Castle stand on a rock spur above the canyon at sunset, with a hiker climbing the stairs below.

Poenari Castle is a ruined mountain fortress linked to Vlad the Impaler, reached by a long staircase through forest and rewarded with canyon views.

The place

Poenari Castle is a ruined fortress in Romania's Argeș County, perched on the plateau of Mount Cetatea above a canyon cut by the Argeș River. The Făgăraș Mountains stand close by, and the ruin looks across the valley toward the western approach of the Transfăgărășan, the high road that brings most travellers to this part of the country. It is a small site. What survives is a ring of broken walls and a few towers on a rock ledge, so the pull is as much the setting as the masonry. The only way up is a concrete staircase of 1,480 steps that climbs through forest and is steep enough that almost everyone stops to rest. Cloud often fills the valley below, and on clear days the view takes in green ridges folding away toward the Vidraru reservoir. Popular memory ties the castle to Vlad the Impaler, who made it one of his strongholds, and that link brings a steady summer crowd, though the numbers are smaller than at better-known castles in Transylvania. The town of Curtea de Argeș, first capital of Wallachia, lies down the valley and keeps the medieval churches of the old principality; it is the sensible base for a visit. Expect a half-day outing, with the climb taking most of the effort and the ruins only a short wander once at the top. The site is exposed, so weather can turn quickly, and the stone steps are slick after rain.

Its story

Poenari Castle has two layers of history, and the older one is hazier. Around the start of the 13th century the Wallachians built a fortress nearby known as Castle Argeș, which by the mid-14th century was the main stronghold of the Basarab dynasty. Over the following decades its name and occupants shifted, and then it was left to decay. The ruin that people climb to today dates from 1459, when Vlad the Impaler recognised the value of a sheer rock spur and rebuilt the place, arresting rival nobles in the process. He took stone from an older, lower fort on the opposite bank of the river. Because of its position and size, the castle was hard to attack, which suited a ruler with many enemies at home. Vlad died in 1476, but garrisons stayed on for years afterwards. Within a couple of generations the fortress was given up for a second time, and it fell into ruin soon after. Nature then finished what neglect began. On 13 January 1913 an earthquake-triggered landslide tore away a section of the walls and dropped it into the river gorge. Further tremors in 1940 and 1977 did more harm. Modest repairs after the later shocks left enough masonry upright to visit. The county museum in Argeș has managed the ruin since 2009.

What to see

Culture

Poenari Castle sits at the centre of an argument about reputation. Outside Romania, Vlad the Impaler is mostly known through vampire fiction. Inside the country, many people see him as a harsh but effective prince who defended Wallachia and imposed order on a quarrelsome nobility, and local guides tend to steer visitors away from the Dracula costume-party version of the story. Expect folklore to be mixed freely with history, and expect the castle to be treated as a historical site rather than a horror attraction. The surrounding valley is largely Romanian Orthodox, and churches and monasteries such as those at Curtea de Argeș are active places of worship, not just monuments. Worshippers cross themselves, light candles and kiss icons, and services run on their own schedule. Rural hospitality is generous: guesthouse hosts often press second helpings and a glass of home-made plum brandy (țuică) on guests, and refusing politely but warmly is fine. Mountain communities also have a long relationship with bears and forest, and locals take a practical view of both. Hikers and drivers on the Transfăgărășan are part of daily life here, and people are friendly to visitors who show interest in the region beyond the castle. At churches and monasteries, cover shoulders and knees, men should take off hats, and ask before photographing inside or pointing a camera at worshippers.

What to wear

Around Poenari Castle, traditional dress means the costume of the Argeș and Muscel foothills, where women's outfits are built on the ie, a loose blouse of linen, cotton or hemp embroidered at the neck, sleeves and chest. It is worn with a wrapped or pleated skirt in wool or cotton and a woven belt. Men traditionally wore a white shirt, narrow woollen trousers, a sheepskin waistcoat and leather opinci, a simple moccasin-style shoe. These outfits now appear mainly at weddings, church festivals, folk performances and national days, and the ie has also become a fashionable item in towns. Day to day, people in Curtea de Argeș and the villages dress like most of Europe: jeans, practical jackets, fleeces in the hills, and smarter clothes for church on Sundays. A visitor should dress for a mountain walk, not a castle tour. Wear sturdy shoes with good grip, since the 1,480 steps are concrete and can be wet or mossy. Bring layers, because the valley can be cool and cloudy even in summer, and carry a light rain jacket. A hat and sun cream help on clear days. For monasteries and churches in town, pack a scarf or light shawl and trousers or a long skirt, as covered shoulders and knees are expected.

What to eat

Plan it

Best time. April and October usually give the mildest days for the climb, while June is the wettest month. July and August are warmest and busiest. The steps are slippery in rain, and the high mountain road is closed by snow in winter, so check conditions before travelling.

How long. 1–2

Getting there. The nearest airports are Bucharest Otopeni, Sibiu and Craiova; hiring a car from any of them is the easiest option. By public transport, take a train from Pitești or a bus from Bucharest, Brașov or Râmnicu Vâlcea to Curtea de Argeș, then a taxi or car up the valley to the foot of the stairs. Bus times can be erratic.

Budget. low

Tips

Etiquette

Nearby

Sources