Landmannalaugar

Landmannalaugar, Iceland

The multicolored rhyolite mountains of Landmannalaugar illuminated by the golden sunrise.

Landmannalaugar offers steaming hot springs, raw lava fields and the northern start of Iceland's famous Laugavegur hike, reachable only in summer.

The place

Landmannalaugar sits inside the Fjallabak Nature Reserve in Iceland's central highlands, on the edge of the Laugahraun lava field. That field was formed by an eruption around 1477, and the ground still looks freshly poured: black and ochre slopes, bare ash and patches of moss that take years to recover. The valley is known above all for its geothermal hot springs, which run close to the camp, and for the coloured rhyolite mountains that rise around it.

The settlement is really a small encampment. It has a campsite, a mountain hut run by the Iceland Touring Association, and a few basic service buildings, including a shower block that visitors rate well and a tiny shop. A steep rhyolite cliff backs the camp and gives some shelter, but the rest of the valley is wide open, and wind can be fierce. Local practice is to anchor tents with stones taken from large wooden boxes called rock corrals.

Landmannalaugar is also the northern start of the Laugavegur trail, which is why many people arrive here on foot after a multi-day walk, or leave by bus at the end of one. In summer the place fills with walkers, campers and the occasional horse-riding group, so the mood shifts from quiet dawn to busy afternoon within hours. Expect cold nights, changeable weather and cloud that can hide the views for days at a time.

Its story

Landmannalaugar's story starts underground. The area sits on volcanic ground, and the heat that feeds its springs is the same heat that once poured out as lava across the Laugahraun field. The eruption that formed that field is usually dated to around 1477, which makes the lava young by Icelandic standards, and its bare, broken surfaces still show it.

For centuries the highlands were a route for travellers and herders rather than a destination. The rough tracks that cross the interior were used long before anyone thought of them as scenery, and the hot water was a known resource, useful for washing and warmth. The valley was remote enough to be left alone for most of the year.

The change came with walkers. Once the Iceland Touring Association began operating a hut here, the valley became a base for people who wanted to cross the interior on foot. The Laugavegur route, which runs south from here toward Thórsmörk, grew into one of the best-known walks in the country. Its popularity is why huts fill months ahead, and why the trail is now marked with stakes about every 200 metres.

Today the story is about access. The roads open only when the snow has cleared, usually by mid-June, and close again before winter. Each season the valley is busier, and in some ways cleaner and in others more crowded. The hot springs and rock formations are the same ones that drew people here generations ago. What has changed is who arrives, and how they pack.

What to see

Culture

Landmannalaugar is a fragile landscape rather than a managed attraction, and most of the good manners here come down to leaving it as you found it. Stay on the marked paths across the lava and moss, because a single set of boots can scar ground that takes decades to heal. The campsite is shared, so keep noise low in the evening, cook away from other tents where you can, and be patient at the shower block and the hot spring during busy hours. Icelandic bathing culture expects a proper wash before anyone enters a shared pool, so rinse off at the facilities first. Changing areas are shared too, so keep your belongings tidy and give others room. Use only the anchoring stones you need, and put them back in the rock corral when you leave, along with every scrap of litter.

What to wear

Landmannalaugar has no dress tradition of its own, but the clothing most associated with Iceland's highlands is wool. The lopapeysa, a pullover knitted from unspun lopi yarn in a yoke pattern, is the best-known garment, and it is suited to cold, wet weather that rarely lets up for long. Wool is central to the country's textile story because it stays warm even when damp, and you will see its traditional patterns in shops across Reykjavík and beyond.

Most people in the highlands wear practical modern outdoor gear: shell jackets, fleece, wool base layers, waterproof trousers and sturdy boots. Bright colours help in mist and low cloud. Visitors from warmer places often arrive underdressed, and nobody dresses up for a hut or a campsite here.

For a visit, dress in layers. Pack a waterproof shell and trousers, a warm mid-layer of wool or fleece, a hat and gloves, and boots with good ankle support for rocky ground and stream crossings. Summer days can be mild and then turn wet and windy within an hour, so keep a spare set of dry socks in your pack. Modesty is not really a dress issue at the camp, but staying dry and warm is essential.

What to eat

Plan it

Best time. Late June to early September, when the roads are open and the huts are staffed. July and August bring the most walkers and the most reliable access, while June and September can still bring snow and closed tracks. Weather is changeable in every month, so plan with flexibility.

How long. 2–4

Getting there. A bus from Reykjavík runs daily in summer from about late June, taking several hours and starting on the coast before moving onto rough tracks across lava and ash plains. Driving needs a high-clearance off-road vehicle, and you should check that your hire car insurance covers the highlands. In peak season buses also run from Akureyri, Myvatn and Skaftafell.

Budget. mid

Tips

Etiquette

Nearby

Sources