Lake Wānaka

Lake Wānaka, New Zealand

Golden sunset light illuminates the Southern Alps across the quiet waters of Lake Wānaka.

Wānaka is a lake-and-mountain base in Otago, where you can swim, sail or walk into Mt Aspiring National Park from one town.

The place

Lake Wānaka sits about 300 metres above sea level in the Otago region of New Zealand's South Island. It is a long, deep body of water that runs roughly 42 kilometres from north to south and covers around 198 square kilometres, lying in a valley scooped out by ice. The town of Wānaka sits near the lake's southern outflow, where the water begins its journey to the Clutha River. Mountains rise steeply on the western side, and the peaks of the Southern Alps can be seen from most points on the lake. The eastern shore is also hilly, though the peaks are lower. The town is a compact place of cafés, galleries and outdoor shops, built for people who came to walk, climb, ski or paddle and stayed for the view. It is the usual base for trips into Mt Aspiring National Park. Lake Hāwea lies to the east in a parallel valley and comes close to Wānaka at one narrow rocky ridge. Summer is the busiest season, so the town feels crowded in holiday weeks, although the lake often stays quiet early in the morning. Many visitors are surprised by the scale. From the water the mountains look closer than they are, and the colour of the lake shifts with the light and the weather.

Its story

The lake's shape tells much of its story. Ice once filled the valleys of the Southern Alps and carved them deep, leaving a broad, U-shaped trough that the water later filled. When the ice retreated, the basin collected meltwater and the flow from mountain rivers, and the Matukituki and Makarora rivers still carry snow and glacial runoff into it today. The lake drains from its southern end into the Clutha River, known in Māori as Mata-Au, so the water here eventually reaches the sea far to the south-east. The name Wānaka comes from the South Island pronunciation of a word connected with learning. Over time it has come to describe a place where knowledge was passed on, and local people use the Māori name on maps and signs alongside the English one. Four small islands sit within the lake. Some were set aside as predator-free sanctuaries so that native animals could recover. Mou Tapu is one of them, and it is home to native invertebrates and a gecko found only in this part of the country. Lake Hāwea shares the same geological history, cut into a neighbouring valley by a different glacier. Here the two lakes are separated by a single narrow ridge, a reminder of how close the ice came to shaping one long valley instead of two.

What to see

Culture

Lake Wānaka sits in land of deep importance to Māori, and the name itself comes from the South Island dialect, which pronounces it differently from the north. Many visitors say the word without knowing its meaning, which is tied to learning and to the knowledge once held by teachers and priests. The town is relaxed and outdoorsy, so the etiquette here is less about formal rules than about respect for the land and for other people using it. Walkers and climbers share the tracks and the huts, and the custom is to leave them clean and to greet others on the trail. Māori greetings and welcomes are used at formal events and marae visits, not on casual trips, so accept any welcome graciously if one is offered. Ask before photographing people, especially at a marae or a cultural event. Take all your rubbish home, and keep dogs on a lead near the island sanctuaries, where wildlife is easily disturbed.

What to wear

Lake Wānaka lies in Te Waipounamu, the South Island, where Māori dress has long been made from harakeke, New Zealand flax. Flax fibre is woven into cloaks called kahu and into skirts called piupiu, which are worn mainly for kapa haka performance and cultural events rather than for everyday wear. Flax was valued for its strength and for the way it softens with use. Today the people around the lake dress for the weather rather than for display. Merino or fleece layers, a windproof shell, hiking boots or trail runners and a warm hat are the common outfit, and the cafés and galleries in town are relaxed enough for smart-casual dinners. A visitor should pack for several seasons in one day. Bring a waterproof jacket and a fleece even in summer, sun protection for the bright lake light, sturdy footwear for gravel and rough tracks, and modest clothing for any marae visit, where shoulders are usually covered.

What to eat

Plan it

Best time. Summer, December to February, is warm and busy, and autumn from March to April brings good colour to the hills around the lake. Winter brings snow to the passes and can make some roads icy, while late spring is quieter and often calmer on the water.

How long. 2–3

Getting there. Queenstown Airport is the nearest airport with regular connections, and the final leg to Wānaka follows the scenic Cardrona Valley. Dunedin Airport is further south-east, and driving from Christchurch makes a long day.

Budget. mid

Tips

Etiquette

Nearby

Sources