Kandy

Kandy, Sri Lanka

A view of Kandy Lake at sunset with lotus flowers in the foreground and mountains in the distance.

Kandy is the hill-country heart of Sri Lanka, a compact town of temples, a lake and an easy walk between them.

The place

Kandy sits in the hills of the island's interior, in Sri Lanka's Central Province, at about 500 metres (1,600 ft) above sea level. Ridges and forested mountains surround it, so the air is cooler and greener than in the coastal lowlands most travellers pass through first. A lake, made by hand long ago, lies in the middle of town beside the central business district, and the streets climb and bend around its edges.

The city is the administrative capital of the province and is often called the cultural capital of Sri Lanka, largely because of its architecture and its temples. Its best-known building is the Temple of the Tooth, which holds a relic believed to be a tooth of the Buddha and draws pilgrims as well as tourists. UNESCO has recognised the town as a World Heritage Site, and the old royal core is compact enough to explore on foot in an afternoon.

Expect a busy, lively town rather than a quiet hill station. Traffic is heavy around the lake and the temple, and tuk-tuks are everywhere. The altitude keeps the heat gentler than on the plains, but the midday sun is still strong. Stay near the lake if you want to walk everywhere; the hillside neighbourhoods are quieter but mean more climbing.

Its story

Kandy's story begins in the fourteenth century, when a king of Kurunegala, a city to the southeast, is recorded as founding a settlement here under an earlier name. The oldest religious foundation in the town, the Asgiri Maha Viharaya, was built by a minister and general, and it still stands as a reminder of how early Buddhism took root in these hills.

The town's great moment came when it became the seat of the Kingdom of Kandy. Its first king, a royal from the Kotte line, ruled the hill country as a semi-independent state under Kotte, and the city grew into the capital of the last Sinhalese monarchy. The court held on through a long run of rulers, some of them rivals, and the throne changed hands by succession, marriage and, at times, by force.

The kingdom's defining trait was resistance. Its rulers pushed back against Portuguese, Dutch and British expansion, and the hills gave them cover that the coastal forts never had. Kandy eventually fell under British control in the early nineteenth century, and the old royal buildings were adapted to new uses. Today that long history is told through the temple, the palace and the museums around the lake.

What to see

Culture

Kandy takes its religious life seriously, and visitors feel it most in the rhythm of the Temple of the Tooth. Buddhist custom shapes daily routines around the lake: people bring flowers and offerings, and monks in saffron are a common sight in the streets. The city's best-known public event is the Esala Perahera, a procession held in July or August in which one of the inner caskets used to cover the tooth relic is carried through the streets on a royal tusker. Traditional dancers, drummers, flag bearers from the provinces of the old kingdom and temple custodians in their traditional dress accompany it, and torch-bearers light the way after dark. Large crowds arrive from across the country and from abroad, so book accommodation early if you plan to attend. Away from the ceremonies, the modern shopping centre at Dalada Veediya offers a contrast to the older streets around it. Whatever you do, dress modestly and take off your shoes before entering any temple or shrine, and never turn your back on a Buddha statue to pose for a photograph.

What to wear

Traditional dress in Kandy reflects the old kingdom's court. Men often wear a white cloth wrapped at the waist, sometimes with a jacket and a head cloth, and white is the colour of temple visits. Women wear draped cotton or silk saris and dresses in the Kandyan style, with pleats at the front and the end gathered over the shoulder. For the Esala Perahera, the processional costume is far more elaborate: dancers and temple custodians wear heavy, richly embroidered fabric, often in deep reds and golds, and carry silver and gold ornaments that catch the torchlight.

Day to day, Kandy looks much like the rest of Sri Lanka. Office workers and students wear Western clothes, many women wear the national dress for weddings and religious occasions, and older men are often seen in sarongs. Cotton and light synthetic fabrics dominate because of the heat.

For a visit, choose loose, lightweight cotton that covers the shoulders and knees, and carry a light scarf to cover your shoulders when you enter a temple. White or pale colours suit the temple setting and keep you cool. Bring comfortable closed shoes for hill paths and steps, plus a light rain layer, since showers can arrive quickly in the hills.

What to eat

Plan it

Best time. January to April is generally the drier stretch, and the hills feel cooler than the coast. The south-west monsoon runs from May through July, and October through December is wetter still, peaking in November, while the Esala Perahera in July or August draws large crowds and fills accommodation quickly.

How long. 2–3

Getting there. Fly into Colombo, then take an intercity express train to Kandy, which takes about three hours and is the most comfortable option. Trains on the main line also continue to the hill country beyond Kandy.

Budget. mid

Tips

Etiquette

Nearby

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