Hegra

Hegra, Saudi Arabia

Sunlight illuminates the towering stone façade of Qasr al-Farid at sunrise, casting long shadows across the desert sand.

Go to Hegra for its rock-cut Nabataean tombs, a desert archaeological park where ancient carvings survive in unusually good condition.

The place

Hegra, also called Mada'in Salih, is an archaeological site in the Al-'Ula area of Medina Province, in the Hejaz region of western Saudi Arabia. Most of what remains dates from the Nabataean kingdom, which founded the city. It was the kingdom's southernmost city and its second largest after Petra in present-day Jordan. The site holds more than 110 tombs carved into sandstone outcrops, and their façades mix styles and scripts that reflect the many cultures passing along the trade routes.

The setting is arid, and the dry climate has done much of the work of preservation. The town was never resettled after it was abandoned, so the tombs, wells and oasis farming remain easy to read, giving a detailed picture of how Nabataean households lived in a harsh environment.

Today the monuments are spread across several necropolis areas, each a separate walk across sand and rock. Qasr al-Farid stands alone as the largest monumental tomb, and Jabal al-Khuraymat is the largest necropolis. Access to the necropolises is only by guided tour on a set itinerary, and walking between them takes time, so plan the route with your guide before setting out.

Hegra is a protected archaeological park, and overnight stays on site are not allowed. Most visitors base themselves in the Old Town of Al-'Ula, about 22 km away, and visit in the cooler part of the day. Busy periods can bring queues, and shade is limited across the open ground, so bring water.

Its story

Hegra's story begins long before the Nabataeans arrived. Across central Arabia, carvings and inscriptions cut into sandstone have been labelled Thamudic, a name coined by nineteenth-century scholars for a large body of writing they had not yet studied properly. Around Mount Athleb, the older Lihyanite script points to early settlement in a valley with fresh water and fertile soil. The Lihyans turned the area into a trading centre, where goods from east, north and south converged.

The great expansion came during the first century of the common era, when the Nabataean king Aretas Philopatris ruled from Petra and made Hegra the kingdom's second capital. The settlement grew into a true city, with farming watered by wells and the tombs cut into the rock on the valley's edges. The city's monumental façades show a mix of influences, and the trade that passed through the valley left its traces in them.

Later, the Romans held the region after Nabataean rule, and a monumental inscription honouring the emperor Marcus Aurelius survives on the site. The city was eventually abandoned and not resettled. The dry climate, the absence of later building and local beliefs about the place all helped preserve the monuments.

Today Hegra is recognised as a World Heritage site, and recent archaeological work continues to uncover rock writing and pictures on the mountains nearby.

What to see

Culture

Mada'in Salih is both an archaeological park and a place that local people hold in quiet regard, and that shapes how visitors should behave. In Islamic tradition the name recalls the prophet Salih, so the valley is treated with reserve rather than as a playground. The sandstone is soft and easily scratched, and the tomb entrances and ledges are fragile, so keep to the marked routes. Hospitality is central across the Hejaz: accept tea or coffee when it is offered, greet people with a simple salaam, and take time to talk before asking questions. Dress modestly, since the surrounding towns are conservative, and cover shoulders and knees at the tombs as well as in the old town. Photographing families, guides or staff needs their agreement first. Never carve, write on or climb the rock faces, and ask before photographing anyone you meet.

What to wear

Traditional dress in Al-'Ula follows the wider Arabian pattern. Men wear the thobe, a long, loose robe usually in white or cream cotton, often topped with a ghutra, a headcloth held in place by a cord called an igal. Women have traditionally worn the abaya, a long dark cloak, over everyday clothes, with a headscarf. Cotton and wool dominate, because cotton breathes in the heat and wool keeps warmth in at night.

Today people in Al-'Ula wear everything from the thobe and abaya to Western jeans and shirts, and the mix is more visible in the newer parts of town. Younger women often choose lighter, more colourful abayas. Men still wear the thobe for prayer, weddings and formal occasions, and the ghutra is common in the desert and in older neighbourhoods.

For a visit, dress for sun and modesty. Loose cotton or linen trousers and long sleeves protect the skin from sun and sand, and a light scarf helps with shade and wind. Cover shoulders and knees, and avoid tight or revealing clothes. Wear closed, sturdy shoes with good grip, because the tracks are sandy and the rock is uneven, so sandals are a poor choice for the tombs.

What to eat

Plan it

Best time. November to February brings mild days and cool evenings, while March, April and October are already hot, with highs around 35 to 38°C. June to August is very hot, and the open sites give little shade, so avoid midday walking then.

How long. 2–3

Getting there. Al-'Ula has a small international airport with flights to major regional destinations. Saptco runs direct buses from Jeddah (about 8 hr) and Riyadh (about 13½ hr). From Al-'Ula, take a taxi or an organised tour for the roughly 22 km to Hegra.

Budget. high

Tips

Etiquette

Nearby

Sources