Harbour Island

Harbour Island, The Bahamas

A weathered wooden dory rests on the pink sand beach of Harbour Island at sunrise with turquoise shallows.

Pink sand beaches, turquoise shallows and a sleepy colonial town make this Bahamian island worth the detour from Eleuthera.

The place

Harbour Island sits off the northeast corner of Eleuthera, and it is one of the Out Islands of the Bahamas. It belongs to a loose line of small islands and reef edges that shelter a lagoon on the east and north sides of Eleuthera's northern tip. The island is low and flat, with its highest point only about 14 metres above the sea, so water and sky seem to fill most views.

Almost everything sits along one stretch of road and lanes near the harbour. The only town is Dunmore Town, which holds the island's shops, eateries, churches and the government dock, and it is small enough to walk end to end in under an hour. The beaches lie to the east, where the famous pink sand runs for long stretches. Most visitors reach them on foot, by bike or in a hired golf cart.

The look of the place is distinctive. Colourful wooden houses with white trim stand among gardens full of flowers, and the buildings blend a New England character with English colonial design. The island is known locally as Briland, a name you will hear in conversation more often than the official one.

The pace is slow, and that is the appeal. Much of the accommodation consists of small inns, guesthouses and private villas, with a few larger resorts. Restaurants are plentiful for a place this size, and you will find good food at a range of prices, but evenings are quiet and the island goes to bed early. It suits people who want sand, sea and conversation rather than nightlife.

Its story

The story of Harbour Island is largely a story about its harbour. The sheltered water on the island's lee side has long given it a reason to exist, and the settlement grew up around the water rather than the interior. The name itself points to the same story.

The town takes its name from John Murray, 4th Earl of Dunmore, who served as governor of the Bahamas from 1786 to 1798. He kept a summer residence on the island, and the town that grew up around it was named for him; the name still appears on maps and signs. Locals, meanwhile, still call the island Briland, a name you will hear in conversation more often than the official one.

The next big change came in the twentieth century, when visitors began arriving from the United States. In the mid-1960s, Brett King, an actor, and his spouse Sharon founded the Coral Sands Hotel here, an early move in making the island a holiday spot. Americans have been among its most regular visitors since, drawn by quiet lanes, clear water and the pink beaches.

Today the island balances two lives. Its residents still depend on the sea, and fishing boats and the mail boat tie up at the docks. Children from the local school take part in Junkanoo, the Bahamian festival of music and costume, and their parades remind visitors that the island is a working community as well as a resort. The tension between the two is the island's present story.

What to see

Culture

Harbour Island is a small community first and a holiday island second, and most of the courtesy visitors need is about everyday life in the town. Dunmore Town's lanes are shared with schoolchildren, cyclists, delivery vans and residents walking home, so keep to the side and give room. Most people greet you first, and returning a greeting with a good morning before asking for anything is a normal courtesy in shops and on the street. Sunday mornings are quiet, and dressing modestly for a church service is expected. Photographs of the brightly painted houses are welcome, but ask before photographing people, especially children at the school or anyone working on a boat or at a stall. Junkanoo is a festival of drums, costumes and crowds, so watch from the side and avoid blocking the route. Music on the beach can carry late, so keep the volume down near homes and inns after dark. Please take your rubbish with you and do not leave bottles or wrappers on the sand or in the bushes.

What to wear

Harbour Island is best known for its beaches, but the clothes here tell their own story. The traditional dress visitors are most likely to see is the Junkanoo costume: elaborate outfits built from crepe paper, cardboard, feathers and sequins, worn by dancers and marchers in the parades that fill the streets during the festival season. Their colours are chosen to be seen from a distance, and the costumes are often worn over a plain base.

Day to day, islanders dress much as they would in any small Caribbean community. Many people wear cotton shirts, short sleeves and light trousers or skirts, and church congregations on Sunday see neat dresses and pressed shirts. Shorts and swimwear are normal on the beach but less so in the town centre, and you will see people change into something more covered when they walk up from the sand.

As a visitor, pack light cotton or linen that breathes in the heat, and bring a hat and sunglasses. Swimwear is fine on the beach, but cover up for the walk into Dunmore Town, and dress neatly for a church service or a formal dinner at an inn. For the rocky shore and uneven paths, sturdy sandals or water shoes are more practical than thin flip-flops, and a light layer is useful for air-conditioned restaurants and evening boat trips.

What to eat

Plan it

Best time. December to April, when the air is drier and the sea is at its calmest. Summer is hot and humid, so plan beach time for mornings and late afternoons.

How long. 2–3

Getting there. Fly to North Eleuthera Airport (ELH), take a taxi to the ferry dock, then cross by ferry or water taxi. Porters at each stage will handle your bags and expect a tip.

Budget. high

Tips

Etiquette

Nearby

Sources