Dana Biosphere Reserve

Dana Biosphere Reserve, Jordan

Sunrise light breaking over the layered sandstone canyons of Dana Biosphere Reserve with a hiker on the trail below.

Jordan's largest nature reserve packs limestone, sandstone and granite into canyons and mountain villages, with hiking from half-day walks to two-day treks.

The place

Dana Biosphere Reserve covers 308 square kilometres (119 sq mi) of south-central Jordan, centred on the village of Dana and the Wadi Dana valley. Established in 1989, the reserve has been run by the Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature ever since. The land drops from about 1,500 metres on the Qadisiyah plateau to the low desert of Wadi Araba, so the reserve reads more like a series of landscapes stacked on top of one another than a single park. Cool highland slopes give way to canyons and gorges, and then to hot, dry ground in the south. The geology is just as mixed. Limestone, sandstone and granite all appear here, and the sandstone cliffs of Wadi Dana have been cut by wind into smooth, banded faces. Because the reserve lies where several bio-geographical zones meet, its plant and animal life is unusually varied. Dana village perches on a cliff edge at about 1,400 metres above the reserve, and its winters can be cold and foggy. Two families still live there, while most houses now serve as accommodation for walkers. Hiking is the main reason to come, and the reserve is best understood on foot.

Its story

The story of Dana is partly the story of a village that nearly emptied out. Dana was built in Ottoman times on a ledge above the canyons, where the highland meets the desert. Over the years most of its houses were left to decline, and by the time the reserve was set up it was a place of ruins and a handful of residents. The turn towards the present began with conservation. The Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature took over management in 1989, when the reserve was founded around the village and Wadi Dana, and it set out to protect a landscape that spans several ecological zones. Its work has included rebuilding parts of the village, a process supported in part by USAID funds. The restored houses have largely become accommodation for visitors, so a walk into town now often means arriving at a small guesthouse rather than a farm. Two families still live in the village, and many police officers also live there, so the village is generally regarded as very safe. The reserve's trails tell another part of the story. Routes run down through gorges towards Wadi Araba and across to Feynan, and some of them can only be walked with a guide. Dana now sits where conservation, tourism and a settlement still being rebuilt meet.

What to see

Culture

Dana's village is small and hospitable, and its customs are easy to observe. Tea is offered freely by anyone you do business with, so accepting a cup is a simple way to start a conversation. Alcohol is prohibited in the reserve, so the evening meal is often the most social part of the day. Two families still live in the village alongside the guesthouses, so late noise carries across the lanes. Many restaurants close in the middle of the day during low season, but the owner may open up if he is around, so ask rather than assume. Support is spread across the village rather than concentrated in the larger hotels, which is why visitors are encouraged to eat and sleep in different places. Many police officers also live in the village, and the area feels calm, but walkers should still carry their own water and litter out of the reserve. When you walk through the village, dress modestly and ask before photographing anyone, especially women and families.

What to wear

Traditional dress in the Dana area follows a wider Jordanian pattern. Men wear the long thobe, a loose robe, usually under a head cloth called a ghutra, often held in place with a black cord known as an agal. Women in rural communities traditionally wore long embroidered dresses, with cross-stitch and colour patterns that vary between families and districts, and many older women still keep one for weddings and festivals. Woven wool and goat-hair cloth has a long history in the highland villages, and dark woven fabrics remain part of the regional craft. Today most people in Dana wear everyday clothes much like those in towns elsewhere in Jordan, such as jeans, t-shirts and simple tunics, with the thobe for prayer, weddings and formal occasions. For a visitor, the climate and terrain decide most choices. Dana's winters can be cold and foggy, so pack warm layers and a windproof shell. Walking the canyon tracks needs sturdy closed shoes with good grip, because the rock is uneven and sometimes loose. In the village, cover shoulders and knees, and carry a light scarf for entering any religious site. Lightweight long trousers and a hat help in the lower canyons, where the sun is strong.

What to eat

Plan it

Best time. November to February are the most comfortable months, with daytime highs below 30 °C, though nights can fall well below freezing. Winter in the village can be cold and foggy, and the lower canyons are likely to be hot in summer.

How long. 2–3

Getting there. The village sits roughly 3 km away from the Qadisiyyeh junction on the Kings Highway. Drive down the short, steep road, or walk. Public transport is difficult, so arrange a pickup through a hotel, and hitching is easy in fine weather.

Budget. low

Tips

Etiquette

Nearby

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