Cox's Bazar

Cox's Bazar, Bangladesh

Sunrise light gleaming across the wet golden sand of Cox's Bazar Sea Beach with gentle waves rolling in.

A long sandy beach, a slow fishing town and a fried-fish lunch make Cox's Bazar a good base for a relaxed coast break.

The place

Cox's Bazar is a city on the south-eastern coast of Bangladesh. It serves as the administrative centre of its district and as a fishing port, and tourism is now the main economic activity. The population is about 196,000, and the ground lies roughly 3 m above sea level, a detail that matters when cyclones bring storm surges. The town lies on a low coastal flatland that seems to jut out toward the Bay of Bengal, with a wide strip of sand and dunes running along the shore. Most of the built-up area stands on a floodplain lower than those dunes, which is why flooding remains a concern in heavy weather. The sea beach is the reason most visitors come. It has a gentle slope and runs for a remarkable stretch, making it one of the longest natural sea beaches in South East Asia. Away from the main strip, the town keeps a slower rhythm of fishing boats, markets and small eateries. A busy hotel zone lies to the south, while quieter guesthouses cluster nearer the centre. The climate follows the tropical monsoon pattern of Bangladesh, hot and very humid with heavy rain, and the coast receives an even wetter southwest monsoon.

Its story

Cox's Bazar's story begins well before the town had its present name. Through the early medieval centuries the wider Chittagong region was ruled by the kings of Arakan, and the coast passed to the Mughals later, when they took the area for themselves. A tale survives of a Mughal prince, Shah Shuja, travelling through these hills towards Arakan. He was struck by the scenery and ordered his column to halt, and his retinue of a thousand palanquins paused there for a while. The spot is still called Dulahazara, a name meaning a thousand palanquins. Later control shifted among the Tipra rulers, the Arakanese, the Portuguese and then the British. The name that now defines the town came from Hiram Cox, an East India Company official posted as superintendent of the Palonki outpost. He followed Warren Hastings in the post and took on the work of resettling Arakanese refugees in the area, helping many of them before his death left the task unfinished. A market set up in his honour took his name, and the settlement grew around it. Cox's Bazar was formally established in the nineteenth century and gained municipal status a few years later. The Indian Rebellion brought Company rule to an end, and the region passed to the British Crown.

What to see

Culture

Cox's Bazar is a conservative coastal town, and the wider district includes Buddhist temples and tribal communities, each with its own customs. Daily life follows the rhythm of prayer times, and the markets and fishing harbour keep long-established routines. Bengali is the main language, and a few words of greeting go a long way with shopkeepers and boatmen. The beachfront is more relaxed than the streets behind it, yet modest dress still matters across the town. Public displays of affection are frowned upon. Photography of people, especially women and families, should be done only with clear permission, and the same courtesy applies to temples and villages. Ask before photographing anyone, especially women and families, and dress modestly once you leave the beach.

What to wear

In Cox's Bazar, traditional dress follows the wider Bengali pattern, with saris and salwar kameez worn by women and the lungi and panjabi worn by men. Cotton and silk are the usual fabrics, and handloom weaving survives in parts of the region, so patterned cloth turns up in local markets. Hill communities of the district have their own weaving traditions, with bold geometric designs and bright colours. What people wear now is a mix. Students and office workers often choose western trousers and shirts, many women wear salwar kameez for everyday wear, and saris appear at festivals and weddings. Men tend to wear shirts and lungis at home. For a visitor, lightweight cotton clothing that covers the shoulders and knees suits the heat and humidity. A light scarf is useful for mosques and villages. Sandals work on sand and in town, while sturdy closed shoes help on boat trips and the marine drive. Remove shoes before entering any mosque or temple.

What to eat

Plan it

Best time. November to March, when the air is drier and cooler and the sea is calmer. The southwest monsoon from June to September brings heavy rain and rough seas, and the months before it are hot and humid.

How long. 2–3

Getting there. Fly from Dhaka or Chittagong, take a train from Dhaka, or travel by bus from Chittagong. The main bus terminal is some way from the centre, so a rickshaw is the usual last leg into town.

Budget. mid

Tips

Etiquette

Nearby

Sources