Bornholm

Bornholm, Denmark

The Hammershus ruin stands on its cliff headland at golden hour, its walls lit amber against the western sea.

Bornholm is a granite island in the Baltic of smoked herring, round churches, a ruined castle and pale southern beaches.

The place

Bornholm is a Danish island in the Baltic Sea, lying well to the east of the rest of Denmark. Sweden sits to the north, Germany to the south-west and Poland to the south, which explains why the island has always felt like a place apart. About 39,632 people live here, so it works as a scatter of small harbour towns, farms and villages rather than a resort built for crowds.

The geology explains most of what a visitor sees. Granite underlies the island except along the southern coast, which earns it the nickname klippeøen, 'rock island'. The north is the dramatic part: bare cliffs, clefts and heathland, quite unlike the gentle rolling hills of mainland Denmark. Moving south, the land drops through pine and broadleaf forest, much of it replanted after storms in the mid-twentieth century, then through open farmland in the middle, and finally to the sandy beaches of the south.

The other nickname is solskinsøen, 'sunshine island'. Summers are bright and fairly dry, and the rock stores warmth, so autumn stays mild for longer than the latitude suggests. Intense heat is rare, because the sea tempers everything, and winters can still be raw. The climate is kind enough for a local fig, Bornholm's Diamond, to grow outdoors, a surprise this far north.

There is no railway, so people get around by bicycle, bus or hire car. Round churches, smokehouses, windmills and small galleries are spread across the island, and most of the pleasure lies in linking them together at an unhurried pace.

Its story

Bornholm's history is mostly a story of being in the way. Sitting in the middle of the Baltic, the island attracted Danish kings, Swedish armies and the merchants of Lübeck, and it changed hands more than once. Its old Norse name, Borgundarholmr, points to a high, rocky place rising out of the sea. Some scholars have even suggested that the Burgundians, and through them Burgundy in France, took their name from the island, though that remains a theory.

In the early sixteenth century the Danish crown pawned Bornholm to Lübeck, as payment for help in winning the throne. Swedish forces seized it in the 1640s but returned it in the peace that followed. The decisive episode came in 1658, when Denmark surrendered the island to Sweden by treaty and Swedish troops occupied it. Islanders were not willing to accept that. A revolt broke out within months, and on 8 December a local man, Villum Clausen, shot the Swedish commander, Johan Printzensköld. By 1660 Bornholm was Danish again. Together with the tiny Ertholmene islands, it is all that Denmark still holds of the lands east of the Øresund.

That rebellion still shapes how islanders describe themselves: independent-minded, a little stubborn, and proud of having won their island back. The ruin of Hammershus, on the north-western tip, is the physical reminder of why so many powers wanted the place. The round churches scattered inland belong to the same medieval world, and together the fortress and the churches give the island a deeper layer of history than its quiet villages first suggest.

What to see

Culture

Bornholm's culture is quiet, practical and craft-minded. The island's economy has long relied on dairy farming and crafts, and that shows in the number of small studios, galleries, workshops and farm shops along the country roads. Svaneke and Gudhjem in particular have a reputation for artists, and local products such as beer, snaps, rye crackers and cheese are sold with some pride.

Most islanders belong to the Lutheran Church of Denmark, the Folkekirken, and the round churches are still part of village life rather than museum pieces. Other denominations arrived mostly in the nineteenth century, among them Baptists, Methodists and Latter-day Saints, and the Catholic church returned in the mid-nineteenth century after the Reformation. The result is a community that is largely secular in daily habits but keeps churches, church bells and seasonal festivals as part of the calendar.

Island manners are informal and understated. People queue without fuss, speak at moderate volume, and are happy to answer questions in English, though a few Danish words, such as 'tak' for thank you, are appreciated. Cycling is a normal way to get around, and drivers expect cyclists to use the marked paths. Smokehouses and harbour kiosks are often busy in summer, and patience at the counter is part of the experience.

In the round churches, speak softly, step aside for any service or funeral in progress, and ask before photographing anyone who is worshipping.

What to wear

On Bornholm, traditional dress survives mainly as heritage costume. Regional folk outfits, typically built from wool and linen with embroidered caps, aprons and bodices, are worn by dance and folk groups and at heritage events and festivals rather than day to day. The brief for this reading names no single famous costume, so it is best to ask at a local museum or tourist office when one is on show.

Everyday clothing is relaxed and practical, in the Scandinavian way. Locals wear jeans, knitwear, windproof jackets and sturdy trainers, with plain colours and little show. Bicycles are common, so many people dress for pedalling, and the same outfit goes from the harbour to the gallery to the pub. Swimwear and sandals appear as soon as the sun does.

A visitor should dress for changeable weather. Summers are bright but the sea breeze is cool, and evenings often need a jumper, so layers and a light waterproof are sensible even in July. Comfortable walking shoes matter on the granite cliffs, forest tracks and cobbled lanes, and a sun hat and sunscreen help on open beaches. There is no strict dress code at churches or in towns, though covering bare shoulders and avoiding beachwear inside a church is polite. In autumn and spring, add a warm hat and gloves for the coastal paths.

What to eat

Plan it

Best time. June to September for the warmest weather, long days and the fullest ferry timetables; July and August are busiest. Autumn stays mild for longer than on the mainland, but winters can be cold and snowy, and some seasonal services shut.

How long. 3–5

Getting there. Bornholm Airport is near Rønne, with year-round domestic flights from Copenhagen and summer-only international flights. Ferries run from Ystad in Sweden to Rønne all year, from Køge to Rønne daily, and from Sassnitz in Germany in summer. There is no railway on the island; Danish rail sells combined train-and-ferry tickets from Copenhagen via Malmö Hyllie and Ystad. Buses, bicycles and hire cars cover the last leg.

Budget. mid

Tips

Etiquette

Nearby

Sources