A day in Prambanan

Prambanan, Indonesia

Morning - Prambanan temples

Cool morning light lies on the ancient Hindu stone towers and the open sky above them. I move slowly among the towers and rest a hand on the warm stone. This place is a monument to classical Hindu art and devotion in Java.

Morning - Candi Sambisari

At the rim of the sunken courtyard, pale light reaches the ash-buried sanctuary below. I pause there and take in the main stones set well under the present ground. Those stones include a lingga and yoni, a clear link to ancient temple worship.

Midday - Candi Sari

Open ground stretches in front of the carved two-storey building. I cross it and study the rooms and exterior carving of this old monastic house. It was built as a dormitory for a monastic community, and stucco still remains on the walls.

Midday - Ayam Geprek stall

The smell of chilli sambal and crispy fried chicken fills this roadside stall, temple stone rising behind me. I sit and eat Ayam Geprek with warm rice and slices of fresh cucumber. The chicken is smashed with sharp, freshly pounded sambal, the local fiery plate.

Afternoon - Affandi Museum

In the wide rooms, light falls across galleries built around the painter's studio. I move from one gallery to the next and look closely at the expressive works. The museum holds a vast collection from one of Indonesia's most celebrated painters, full of raw emotion and dynamic brushwork.

Afternoon - Archaeological site grounds

Clear light and a wide sky lie over the open archaeological ground. I explore the outdoor sites while the air stays dry and the view stays open. June to September offers the driest weather and the clearest skies for these sites.

Afternoon - Volcanic ash field

Afternoon light lies wide across the open volcanic ash. I cross the ground and notice how fine and dry it feels under my feet. Candi Sambisari was found buried beneath layers of this ash, in a courtyard below the present ground.

Golden Hour - Candi Kalasan

The batik wrap and woven stole feel thick against me before the dark volcanic stone. I wear this formal dress and look at the intricate exterior reliefs. Candi Kalasan is the oldest Buddhist sanctuary in the surrounding region, established by a ruler of the Sanjaya dynasty.

Night - Affandi former studio

Lit rooms open across the former home and studio. I cross from the old living space into the working rooms and take in the scale of them. The museum is built directly around this house and studio of one of Indonesia's most celebrated painters.